Restaurant Review: The Helmand (Baltimore- Mt. Vernon): Upscale traditional Afghan cuisine, good prices, highly recommended

May 28, 2008 by michael · 2 Comments 

Overview

Ambiance: Classy, upscale dining area, tight seating, Middle-Eastern decor
Food: Traditional Afghan cuisine, many vegetarian options
Service: Friendly and quick, good overall.
Wine List: Just OK- a few good finds- prices are fair. No corkage available.
Pricing: $$ (Appetizers: $6-$10, Entrees $12-$22- very good pricing for the quality of food)
Attire: No specific dress code but most patrons follow business casual to business attire.
Overall rating: Very Good-highly recommended: Food was well spiced, overall the service is great and for a nice dinner out the prices can’t be beat. Wine list is nothing to write home about but there are a few great options.
Location/Contact Info: http://www.helmand.com
806 N Charles St.
Baltimore, MD 21201
Phone: 401-752-0311

Review: This upscale Afghan restaurant is located on Charles Street North Just blocks from the Washington Monument, as it has been for over 25 years. For a restaurant to survive 25 years is quite an accomplishment, for a restaurant to be packed night in and night out after 25 years is just incredible. I guess when you serve delicious, exotic cuisine at more than fair prices, provide a menu filled with both meat and vegetarian options, and provide good service, you have a good chance of succeeding in the restaurant business!

Entering the Helmand, we were not greeted by a hostess. Instead, you make your way to the rear of the restaurant where someone behind the bar will check you in (reservations recommended) and get you situated. Our wait for a table, even on a Saturday night, wasn’t too long (less than 5 minutes). Once seated, we were pretty close to the adjacent tables, and overall it was a bit noisy in the dining area, but it was a good noisy. The noise and clutter may have played a role into why it took the server a while to head in our direction, though once we were noticed, the service was very good.

The wine list isn’t very extravagant, but there are some deals to be had. We started with a few whites by the glass. My Pinot Gris ($7) was not very good, but I forced it down. Kim enjoyed a nice Fume Blanc from Washington State that I’d give around 87 points, and for $6 was a great find. With our meal we enjoyed a Marques de Mersallie (2000) which was a bargain at $28 and was well matched for our lamb entrees. They also have a few moderately priced beers available if that’s your fancy. Overall the wine list will please most people as there are a few options in each category to pair well with any main course. That said, wine enthusiasts will most likely be disappointed and are recommended to not have high expectations of the list or stemware.

Our journey into Afghan cuisine began with a large bowl of pita bread with a sweet butter. The pita bread was warm and with the sweet butter was a great way to hold over our appetite until our appetizers began coming out. A must try starter is Kaddo Borwani, which is a fried then baked pumpkin dish that is sweet yet balanced with the yogurt garlic sauce. Our small pita bread was warm and great for soaking up the sauce from the Aushak, which is a ravioli with beef filling. The ravioli was cooked al dente which was nice, stuffed with leeks and vegetables, and served with a spicy beef sauce. This dish was a huge success, providing both good textures and great seasoning. Another highly recommended appetizer is the Bowlawni- pastry shells filled with leeks, potatoes, and onions and served with a garlic sauce. The portions on the appetizers are modest, so one per person is recommended.

The main plates at the Helmand provide good sized portions of very elegant and traditional Afghan cuisine. The Chopan ($15) features a marinated half rack of lamb served with tomato and onion salad. The lamb was both tender and flavorful. The Rack of Lamb chops featured 3 well seasoned chops which, although two of them were overcooked (ordered medium rare), were very juicy. Another great lamb dish is the Seekh Kabob. This char-broiled marinated lamb tenderloin was perfectly seasoned, although its accompanying spinach side dish was a pass. The rice is of course perfectly prepared and is especially good with the accompanying cilantro sauce.

Other menu options include traditional chicken Kabobs, spinach Sabzy and both lamb and chicken Lawand (boneless chicken/lamb served with mushrooms, tomatoes, herbs and a yogurt sauce). There are a dozen or more vegetarian options as well which range from stuffed peppers to baby eggplant filled with spinach. It’s likely that the menu will please even the most picky eater in your party.

Our dessert consisted of an assortment of Afghan pastries with both a crème and raspberry sauce. The pastries were similar to baklava having philo dough, crushed nuts/honey filling and were great with the sauces. There are many classic dessert options available as well that should satisfy even the sweetest tooth.

The Helmand provides a warm, intimate atmosphere, great food and is overall highly recommended. The prices are more than fair making this a great place to celebrate any occasion with a large group without breaking anyone’s budget.

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