First-time visitors guide to Montalcino
August 25, 2008 by michael · Leave a Comment
This past November Kim and I spent nine days dining and wine tasting in one of the most highly acclaimed wine regions in the world. On our trip to Montalcino, we abandoned the guide books that helped us in Florence, Siena and Bologna and decided that we would just find places that looked good and take our chances. The result was quite surprising: two of the more highly recommended establishments were let downs while many of the smaller, lesser known restaurants gave us great food, outstanding service and overall incredible dining experiences. This short guide will hopefully give you an idea on where to eat, drink and stay if you don’t have time to try every place out for yourself. For those of you who aren’t traveling to this beautiful hilltop town, you’re missing out on some of the best food and wine the world has to offer.
Related links:
TN: 2001 Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino
2001 Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino: Purchased at vineyard. Decanted 30 minutes, drank over 2 hours. Another very enjoyable bottle of this ‘01 Brunello. Loads of dark fruit, elegant tannins, great spice and earth notes with a complex finish. My Rating: 92 pts
More on the Brunello saga…
May 13, 2008 by michael · 3 Comments
For the past two months some producers of Brunello di Montalcino, one of the premier wines in the world, have been investigated for blending their Brunello (100% Sangiovese-based wines) with Cabernet and Merlot. Amidst these allegations, the United States Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has stepped in to ensure that the wines that reach our dinner tables are the real thing. Decanter Magazine is reporting that imports of Brunello into the United States may be delayed beginning June 9, 2008.
From Decanter: “Francesco Marone Cinzano, president of the trade body, the Brunello Consorzio, said… ‘Starting on 9 June, the US will block all Brunello imports unless the wine is accompanied by laboratory analysis proving that the wine is pure Sangiovese.”
I understand regulations on producers to ensure that Brunello is in fact 100% Sangiovese, but is this level of control necessary? Is it really feasible to ask this of all 200 or so producers that export wines to the US? What do you think: has it gone too far, or is this an important step in preserving the tradition and integrity of one of the worlds most amazing wines?
Image: Taken in Montalcino of an Enoteca on one of the main roads into town.
Two Flavors of Sangiovese di Montalcino: Rosso and Brunello
April 3, 2008 by michael · 5 Comments
The small Tuscan DOCG around the city of Montalcino has been the center of attention lately following allegations that winemakers were using non-Brunello grapes in the production of the famed Brunello di Montalcino. The Brunello grape is really just a clone of Sangiovese that was first planted by the Biondi Santi family in the late 19th centruy. Up until the 1940’s many producers in and around Montalcino did not pursue the grape. It wasn’t until 1945 when Brunello really began to gain attention and saw widespread plantings. Today Brunello makes up one of the most prized wines in Tuscany and one of the premier wines of Italy. When well made, Brunello has fine tannins, wonderful fruit character and elegance. When combined with the tradition and romance of the history of Brunello, make this wine one of the most sought after in the world.
Today there are strict rules regulation the production of Brunello di Montalcino. These include:
- use of only the Brunello grape
- normale bottling: released 50 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle
- riserva: released 62 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle
Wednesday Wine Rant - 03/26/08 - Brunello, Brunello - say it ain’t so.
March 26, 2008 by michael · 3 Comments
I LOVE BRUNELLO. You all are aware that Brunello di Montalcino is one of my favorite wines. The “Brunello” grape is a specific clone of the Sangiovese grape that is unique to the area surrounding Montalcino (Tuscany), having first been planted in the 1800’s by the Biondi Santi family. Today, Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most prized wines made by over 200 producers, all who have to stick to the basic formula:
- 100% Brunello clone of Sangiovese
- Normale Bottling: released 50 months after harvest (minimum 2 years aged in wood, 4 in bottle)
- Riserva bottling: released 62 months after harvest (minimum 2 years aged in wood, 4 in bottle)
The result of this process is a beautiful developed wine with concentrated, ripe fruits when young and delicate tannins with age. (Image taken this past November of downtown Montalcino, from the fortress!).
No one likes a cheat. It seems like some Montalcino vinters aren’t playing by the rules. Wine Spectator’s James Suckling blogged on the topic last week, mentioning the allegations that some winemakers are adding other grapes to their Brunello blend to make it more fashionable for todays wine consumer. He noted that this was merely allegations and no formal accusations were made towards any one vineyard.
Well today, our friends at Vinowire.com have reported that they have direct confirmation from the president of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Stefano Campatelli, stating that the allegations are in fact under investigation and it appears there is some truth to them. I have contacted the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino for further comment and will update you when I hear anything.
From Vinowire: “Stefano Campatelli, who has confirmed that “irregularities” have been found in wines labeled as Brunello produced by at least twenty producers in Montalcino. According to outside sources who have requested anonymity because they were not permitted to speak publicly about the investigation, that number could be as high as 80 or 90.”
Please, say it ain’t so…
For more on the topic, check out the story on Vinowire.com. I’m almost afraid to follow this story to find out which of my beloved Brunello producers are guilty of this terrible crime. More reading and initial report here: Vino al vino
Recipe and Tasting Notes: Grilled Lamb Ribs and a 1995 Brunello di Montalcino
March 7, 2008 by michael · 7 Comments
Some Thursday night meals are just better than others. This one was, well, better than most. As you may know, twice a year I buy a whole lamb from our vet who owns a farm (we buy a cow, as well!) and takes outstanding care of her livestock. It’s quite nice to know you’re buying meat from animals that were well taken care of, especially with all of the problems with abuse in the large slaughterhouses. The result of this great care is beautiful cuts of meat that are filled with flavor!
For tonight’s dinner I came up with a rub using some ingredients we had around the kitchen and used it to make grilled lamb ribs. I really enjoy cooking when we haven’t gone shopping in a while; it’s a fun challenge and I usually come up with combinations I haven’t tried before. The result this time was a rib of lamb, rubbed with a dry rub of sage/garlic/thyme/capers (and more) and grilled to juicy perfection!
Here are the tasting notes on the wine (from my favorite wine region in the world, Montalcino) which I acquired recently from a collector with a cellar deep in Italian greats. Overall, the wine was very good- making me miss Montalcino even more!
Read more
Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year - What I thought!
This month The Wine Spectator released it’s top 100 wines of the year. Without getting into what I thought of their selections, and with 2008 a few days away, I thought I’d recap my tasting notes on the wines that made Wine Spectator’s top 100 that I was lucky enough to try. Unfortunately, the high prices of those wines in the top 50 were too much for me to taste more than a few! Maybe next year we’ll see more value wines making the top 50! NOTE - I’ve listed Wine Spectator’s ratings (WS Rating) and rank. For information on my Value Rating System, check out my ratings page.
Without further ado:
8. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love 2006 ($80): Opened and tasted immediately: Mushroom, plum, cherry, big fruits, big yet soft tannins. Decanted. 2 hour decant: Great color. Still tight on the nose. The initial mushroom note is gone with the appearance of a musty-forest floor with a touch of pepper and bacon. On the palette it’s toasted cedar, vanilla, plum, pretty solid through the middle with a long, complex finish that goes on and on. At this point I’m definitely seeing 96 pts or more. 3 hour decant: Again showing better, more buttery now with a bit more spice. The fruits in this wine just don’t stop. Quite pleasing and still 96+ points. 4 hour decant: Just as elegant as before. I’m quite impressed with the structure of this wine and overall quality. Very good. A very solid 96 points. My rating: 96 pts, GV. WS Rating: 95 pts
12. Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva 2001 ($175): I have yet to try this wine, but it’s in the cellar and will be opened in 10 years or so!
16. Schild Shiraz Barossa 2005 ($25): Decanted - big dark fruits, spice, tobacco on the nose. On the palate the wine is explosive with big, dark fruit, leather, plum, tar. Smooth tannins, long finish - pretty straight forward big Aussie Shiraz if that’s your style, you’ll like this wine (the 2004 was a better wine overall). We had this twice and it was consistently good. My rating: 90 pts, GV. WS Rating: 93 pts
37. Navarro Zinfandel Mendocino 2004 ($19): Blueberry, blackberry, cherry and some spice notes on the nose, as well as a small petrol component. Very good balance given the amount of alcohol, smooth tannins and a medium-long finish. A good Zin and great value. Tasted 3 times with consistent notes and evaluation. My rating: : 93 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 92 pts
62. Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques 2005 ($22): Decanted 1 hour. Earthy tones, cherry, raspberry and other bright fruits. On the palate the wine was very well balanced, with dusty tannins and a earthy, medium-length finish. Should get better with a couple years, drinking nice now with a long decant. My rating: 93 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 91 pts
71. Columbia Crest Merlot Columbia Valley Grand Estates ($11): Deep reddish plum in color with notes of plum, raspberry, vanilla and blueberry on the nose. The body is surprisingly creamy with soft tannins layered with good fruit and tar flavors. Long finish accented by a subtle chocolate note - well made bargain Merlot. Buy a case and enjoy one of the best values out there. My rating: 89 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90 pts
72. Yellow Tail Shiraz South Eastern Australia The Reserve 2005 ($11): With all the hype about the Yellowtail reserve Shiraz, I felt it would be fun to grab a bottle and see for myself whether it was warranted. I did not taste this blind, but I wish I had, it was very good. The wine was filled with dark fruits and spice with surprising balance and really smooth tannins. The finish fell apart a bit, but overall the wine is a great value and highly recommended as a daily drinker. My rating: 88 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90pts
77. Heidsieck Monopole Brut Champagne Blu Top NV ($35). Tasted from 375 mL bottle. Pale yellow color with plenty of tiny bubbles. Apple, pear, buttered toast with good balance. Light, crisp, and very refreshing. My rating: 90 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 91 pts.
92. Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2006($14): Pale yellow color. On the nose is wet stone, pear, honey and a touch of lemon rind with citrus, pear and some more honey on the palate. This wine has some wild acidity but it’s not overwhelming and makes it a great spring/summer wine served with spicy cuisine. The finish is crisp and very refreshing. A great value wine from an outstanding producer. My rating: 91 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90pts
100. Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($70): Tasted twice. August 2007 - Filled with dark fruits, berry, currant, chocolate, touch of oak. Firm tannins, long finish. Another great wine from a great producer with good aging potential. My rating: 93 pts, CV. WS Rating: 92 pts
Caymus tasted again 12/26/07: Decanted 30 minutes at a wine bar. Real tight nose, blackberry, black currant, leather. On the palate the wine was a bit off from the other time I’ve had this and rated it 93 pts…the tannins were rough with a medium-long finish. Not corked, but maybe an off bottle. My rating: 87 pts (PV, poor value as it showed this time around).
Brunello Tasting Report Part II - 2000-2002 Vintages
December 10, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
Welcome to Part II of the two part series on Brunello di Montalcino! Part I was pre-2000 vintage Brunello’s that were tasted on a recent trip to Montalcino (see image to left!). Here, I offer notes on Brunello’s from vintages 2000-2002. Some of these are not exported, but I felt like including all the notes (well, not all the notes, I have notes on about 3-5 more wines that I need to locate in our receipts and scrap paper!). Overall, the wines were incredible with the 2001 vintage being outstanding (as reported previously by Wine Spectator and others). I had heard a lot of bad press about the 2002 vintage, but overall I didn’t think it was as bad as other critics made it out to be. Sure they won’t hold for as long as the 2001’s, but some of them were drinking quite nicely now. Rest assured though, many of the winemakers informed me that the upcoming vintages should provide some very incredible wines.
Banfi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Nose of dark fruits and toasted oak.
On the palate, there is berry and plum, touch of vanilla. The wine is big but lacks real elegance or finesses with a bit of spice and earth component carrying it through a medium finish. Others have rated this wine much higher. My rating: 89 pts, GV
Banfi 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: Very rich, dark fruits, big cigar box component on the nose. Blackberry and cherry through the palate with chocolate standing out. Chewy tannins with some finesse. Good considering the overall quality of the vintage and definitely better than the 2001, which surprised me. My rating: 90 pts, GV
Banfi 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura: Nose of herbs, rosemary and blackberry with a fresh forest component. The style of this wine was very Brunello-esque with a good range of concentrated flavors on the palate, big, velvety tannins and a medium-length finish. Drinking well know, give it another 5 years. My rating: 92 pts, GV
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto: From a very well known and respected producer, this 2000 Riserva was drinking very nicely. A lot of what I expect from a good Brunello: autumn forest with blackberry, raspberry, licorice. The tannins are very elegant and the finish goes on and on. The 2000 is drinking quite nicely right now and should continue to drink well for 10 years or more. My rating: 94 pts, GV 
Image: Vines of di Neri
Casanova di Neri 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto: I had very high expectations for this “100 point wine” (rated by James Suckling of Wine Spectator - see my article on 100 point wines) and was a bit skeptical of what I had read. I was not at all disappointed. There is so much going on in this wine it took me a while to put it into words. I went back and forth between smelling the wine and swirling for an hour, with only a few sips mixed in between. In no particular order I noted blackberry and raspberry, chocolate, currant, smoked wood. The tannins are complex and refined on so many levels and the finish, oh the finish…it’s sad it does eventually finish. This may be one of the first wines I ever give 100 points…but it’s still a few years away from that. Still, a stunning wine. Pricey at release, this wine is unaffordable following the stellar score. My rating: 97 pts, CV
Cerbaia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Aged in large,
Croce di Mezzo 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: Red fruits as well as some dark cherry with a good pepper component on the nose. Big tannins but not very good integration. Spice returns on medium-length finish. My rating: 85 pts, OKV
Fattoi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino : Decanted from 375 mL. Brilliant dark ruby color. Nose and mouthful of ripe dark fruits, leather, spice. Great on the mid-palate with a lot of ripe fruit flavors carrying the wine through medium tannins and good length on the finish. My rating: 89 pts, GV
Ferrero 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: The bottle wasn’t flawed, but it was a bit off. I noted flavors of cherry, mushroom, and cough-syrup with mild tannins and a medium finish. My rating: 83 pts, PV
Image to the left are the vines at Fuligni
Fuligni 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Dark ruby color. On the nose a lot of dark fruits and a touch of vanilla, mushrooms, llicorice. The wine starts and finishes strong – dark cherry, blackberry and anise with big, velvety tannins and a 20-30 second finish. Quite good. My rating: 93 pts, GV
Il Paradiso di Frassina 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Maybe it’s the music that is played throughout the vineyard for the vines, or the love and care of the composer and winemaker, whatever it is, the wines of Il Paradiso di Frassina were very good. This 2001 Brunello showed great fruits and spice notes. The tannins were complex yet soft and the finish offered cherry notes and was long. My rating: 93 pts, VGV
Image to the right is from Il Paradiso di Frassina - Story on this lovely vineyard to come! 
Il Paradiso di Frassina 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: This was definitely my favorite of the 2002 Brunello’s that we tasted. It’s location north of Montalcino and at a lower elevation allowed for earlier picking of the best grapes prior to a lot of the bad weather in the 2002 vintage. The nose offered floral notes, cedar and miscellaneous dark fruits with plum and cherry on the palate. Great structure, big tannins and a long, story-telling finish. My rating: 91 pts, VGV
Le Potazzine 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: A lot of fruit on the nose with plum, currant standing out. Big forest floor component. The fruits really stand out early but really come together nicely through the mid-palate with spice notes. Big yet delicate tannins with a long finish highlighted by cherry notes. This opened up very nicely over 30 minutes and I imagine another few years in the bottle would do it wonders. My rating: 92 pts, GV.
La Serena 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Opened for 30 minutes before tasting. Pretty standard Brunello here: dark garnet color, cherry, leather, earth on the nose. Spice notes, earth and dark fruits show up immediately on the palate with the spice returning on the finish. Overall good balance with silky tannins and medium acidity. My rating: 91 pts, GV
Lisini 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia: Great dark ruby color with a nose of cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cedar. Huge body with very big, mouth-drying tannins and very good balance. Long finish with spice showing up near the end. Pricey, but very good. My rating: 95 pts, GV
Mastrojanni 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: An interesting character of a wine from the start. A lot of dried herbs, allspice, currant cherry and a fresh green countryside on the nose. Blueberry and dark cherry on the palate, with a good amount of acidity and moderate tannins, medium finish. A little closed up but approachable. My rating: 90 pts, VGV
Montecarbello 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Purchased at Les Barrique in Montalcino. First bottle was corked and returned to the store. The wine began with a good amount of earth, red and black fruits, earth, spice and dried herbs. Good overall balance with medium tannins and a medium length finish. My rating: 91 pts, VGV
Pietroso 2001 Brunello di Montalcino:
Santa Lucia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Big nose of dark berries and black cherry. Fresh earth component with a touch of spice. Well structured but a bit tight right now with medium tannins. Give it a year or a long decant. My rating: 89 pts, GV
Image to right is of Kim at our tasting at Santa Lucia!
Santa Lucia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Dark berries, licorice, cedar with a full body, smooth tannins, long finish. Good balance, still a bit tight – a great find. My rating: 92 pts, VGV
Santa Lucia 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: A good value from the 2002 vintage with a nose of black fruits, cedar and a touch of spice with licorice and dark cherry. Good earth component, medium tannins, medium finish. My rating: 87 pts, GV
Valdi Sug 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: My notes on this blend from 3 vineyards in Montalcino were not very detailed. We stopped into the wine tasting room only for a few moments and left having only tried this 2002 BdM. I did note solid dark fruits with good structure and a medium finish. My rating: 86 pts, GV
Verbena 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Nose has a lot of ripe, dark fruits, vanilla, chocolate and a petrol component. The wine took a while to open but when it did it showed earth, woody blackberry, dark raspberry, and plum notes. Good structure and smooth tannins, medium finish. My rating: 89 pts, GV
Downtown Montalcino: Picture taken from the top of the Fortress:
1st Round of Brunello di Montalcino Tasting Reports: 1990’s
November 26, 2007 by michael · 2 Comments
Here are the tasting notes of the few Brunello’s we had from the 1990’s. All wines tasted between 11/10/2007 and 11/18/2007 in Montalcino. I will post the 2000-2002’s in the next week, as there are significantly more of these to type in! For a look at a “Vintage Quality Overview”, click here.
Tenuta di Collosorbo 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Bottle#0177: Bottle opened, no decant but drank over 2 hours. Deep garnet color. Good red fruits on the nose with tons of cherry and raspberry, highlighted by a nice spiciness. On the palate the wine is quite complex with layers of bright fruits, spices and cedar with mouth-drying tannins and a lot of cherry on a very long finish. As the wine evolved, more spice notes emerged and the wine became quite interesting in a good way. Overall the 1993’s are drinking great now. Drink now. My rating: 92 pts
Case Basse (Soldera) Brunello di Montalcino 1997 Riserva: Dark ruby color. A lot of different aromas on the nose. Big cherry, raspberry, sweet spice, maybe vanilla bean, some floral notes as well as earth. On the palate the fruits really strike me as something special. There are layers of cherry and blackberry, and every so often a touch of licorice and a few spices I can’t really decide on what they are. The balance and structure of this wine is near perfect. The tannins delicate…the only flaw? The bottle was only 750 mLs! If you own a bottle, wait 5-10 years. If you own a few, open one now, then every few years until they are gone and enjoy the evolution of a near perfect wine. My rating: 99 pts.
Capanna 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Another example of how well the 1998’s are drinking as a whole right now. Very lovely spice and cherry notes on the nose, as well as a lot of darker fruits. The wine started off with a hint of spice then moved into an earth component, then concentrated fruits and well balanced acidity with medium/big tannins. Worth the money if you can find it. My rating: 93 pts.
Col d’Orcia (Cinzano) Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Riserva Poggio al Vento: (I have this in my notebook, but put details somewhere else, therefore I have to look for my notes on this one!) My rating:
Fuligni 1998 Brunello di Montalcino: Opened and poured, let breathe for 15 minutes in the glass while observing the evolution of the nose. The wine was a nice ruby color, with minor discoloration on the edges. The nose showed cherry, tobacco, blackberry, mushroom, as well as a floral component. The wine had good structure and weight, with soft tannins and a very pleasing, earthy finish. Drink now. My rating: 91 pts. (Picture to left is at Fuligni)
Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura 1999 Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva): Brilliant dark red color. What started as a brief sniff of the wine ended up as multiple long whiffs of layers of flavors ranging from plum, cherry, dark fruits, vanilla, licorice, and cedar. The fruits in the wine danced with each other across the palate with both sweet and spice notes playing a song. Overall very well integrated with smooth tannins and a long, complex finish. Drinking very nicely right now. My rating: 94 pts.
Col d’Orcia (Cinzano) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 Poggio al Vento: (I have this in my notebook, but put details somewhere else, therefore I have to look for my notes on this one!) My rating:
Santa Lucia 1999 Brunello di Montalcino: Leather, earth, spice, and a touch of floral notes on the nose. On the palate good earth component with subtle fruits and spice, light tannins and a medium finish. Drink now or within the next year. My rating: 89 pts.
Tenuta Caparzo 1999 Brunello di Montalcino: Decanted 1 hour. Good example of the traditional style of Brunello. A lot of black cherries, raspberries, a touch of spice, earth, and a touch of cedar. Well balanced, with elegant tannins that, along with cherry and some interesting spice notes, make for a very good finish. My rating: 91 pts
Did I mention this was an amazing trip? More to come!
BdM Vintage Quality
An overview of the best vintages of Brunello di Montalcino (source:Consorzio Del Vino Brunello Di Montalcino):
Legend: (note: 2003-2007 not yet released as of 11/28/07)
insufficient vintage *
fair vintage **
good vintage ***
excellent vintage ****
outstanding vintage *****
1945 ***** 1976 *
1946 **** 1977 ****
1947 **** 1978 ****
1948 ** 1979 ****
1949 *** 1980 ****
1950 **** 1981 ***
1951 **** 1982 ****
1952 *** 1983 ****
1953 *** 1984 *
1954 ** 1985 *****
1955 ***** 1986 ***
1956 ** 1987 ***
1957 **** 1988 *****
1958 **** 1989 **
1959 *** 1990 *****
1960 *** 1991 ****
1961 ***** 1992 **
1962 **** 1993 ****
1963 *** 1994 ****
1964 ***** 1995 *****
1965 **** 1996 ***
1966 **** 1997 *****
1967 **** 1998 ****
1968 *** 1999 ****
1969 ** 2000 ***
1970 ***** 2001 ****
1971 *** 2002 **
1972 * 2003 ****
1973 *** 2004 *****
1974 ** 2005 ****
1975 ***** 2006 *****
2007 *****
Trip Update 5 - I left Montalcino!
November 19, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
After a few more days in Montalcino, a night in Bologna, a few cold nights in Germany, a warm bus ride to Herborn, a currywürst mit pommes (amazing type of bratwürst with fries) and a cold, rainy walk to the internet cafe, I am glad to report that things are still going well.
Since the last post I have a lot of new material to post, but do not have the time right now. Kim has left for her training in Düren and in two more days I will be boarding a plane in Frankfurt headed for a brief layover in Detroit, then arriving in Baltimore on Wednesday around 6 pm EST.
A quick preview of articles to come:
- best and worst restaurants in Montalcino (we ate at almost all of them and it will come as some surprise to the biggest letdowns and worst meal of them all!)
- a review of over 100 wines, including more than 60 Brunello´s and a few older vintages (1993, 1997-99)
- great places to eat and stay in Bologna#
- i have over 1200 pictures already, so expect a lot of photos
- restaurant and bier reviews from all over Germany
- and more!!!
Time to head to the Bahnhof (train station).
Auf wiedersehen!
Trip update number 4: I’m never leaving Montalcino.
November 13, 2007 by michael · 2 Comments
(NOTE: typed fast without spell check, so please forgive the errors!)
I will miss the US and my friends and family, but I’m not sad to say that I am never coming back! Someone put the huskies and Jake on a plane to Firenze, you can keep my wine cellar and all of my other belognings, they won’t be needed here anyways!
We arrived in Montalcino on Sunday night after an hour and a half drive from Florence. It would have been shorter but it’s difficult to maintain proper course when you can’t understand road signs!
We arrived and checked in at our hotel (L’Hotel Vecchia Oliviera) around 6:30 PM.? The hotel is conveniently located at the first round-about you come to in town, tucked away behind a giant stone wall and located on the hillside. The entryway boasts a large stone arch that leads into an elegant, yet simple lobby. The hotel director Gianfranco Marone welcomed us warmly with our broken Italian and his fluent English. Our room, on the second of two levels, consists of a 20 x 20 ft large open space with 20 ft cielings held together with 4″x8″ wood rafters. The rustic yet updated room is equpped with a small television, minibar and a safe. On the other side of the door is a large bathroom complete with jacuzzi tub, toliette, large sink area, and a bodet. Everything here is very clean and fresh, and although we couldn’t see much beyond our hotel pool and hundreds of flickering lights in the horizon, we knew the morning was going to bring somehting special.
The first night we ate at Les Barrique, which consists of a small wine shop in the entrance area, with an open kitchen to the right and a small (7 tables) dining area in the wine-cellaresque back room. Our dinner began with a plate of cured local meats, bread, and olive oil.? Our first course was ravioli with truffle sauce, which had generous amounts of shaved truffles on top, as well as polenta with a venison ragu. This all served with a glass of 2001 riserva Brunello. I have never in my life experienced a better food and wine pairing. At this point in the meal I made the statement this was some of the best food I had ever eaten…then came the second course: Wild boar stew and filet a Montalcine, which was slices of perfectly tender beef fillet served on an arugala salad topped with lemon and olive oil. Who could blame me for never coming back?
Again, when upon arrival to Montalcino, it was dark out so although we had some idea of how beautiful the city was from photos and the dark silouttes of medieval buildings, we did not expect what surise brought us. I laid in bed the first night like a kid waiting for Christmas morning- anxious, full of energy, and unable to stay asleep. Finally the sun broke over the mountains. Before I go on, for those unfamiliar with Montalcino, picture a medieval town, equipped with windy roads, old fortresses, and perched high upon a giant hill overlooking miles and miles of grape vines, olives,and other agriculture (just google image search Montalcino - I have hundreds of pictures to come!). The view was, in one word, perfect. OK, two words, breathtaking. OK, OK, really, words can not describe it. Absolutely, incredibly, spectacutlar. You get the picture.
We spent the day tasting wines, beginning at 10 AM and going through the afternoon. Lunch was pizzas with toppings like fresh local mushrooms and sausage, or anchovies and capers. We ate on the terrace of our hotel with a bottle of Cassanova di Neri 2005 Rosso di Montalcino, which was at least 92 pts and an incredible value. The lunch was something out of a movie that I had only imagined ocurrunig in movies or dreams. I have notes on all of our vineyard visits and wines we have had, but will post these when I get back to the US in a big overview.
After lunch and a short nap, we headed into the town centre to visit shops and have some wine. Last night we ate at a local favorite called Trattoria d’ Angelo, which is one block down from the giant medieval fortress overlooking town and the surrounding areas. Here the dining area was again small but quite comfortable. The antipasti consisted of meats, mushrooms and artichokes in oil, and bread. Our service was great and was facilitated with the help of 5 year old Lorenzo, the son of theowner who brought us silverware, napkins and the like. Our first course again was a pasta dish with a truffle cream sauce which was incredibly rich and filling, as well as a plate of cianghale (wild boar) pasta. Second course brought a perfectly cooked pork chop, as well as thinly sliced roast beef in a Brunello sauce. We had a few half’-bottles of Brunello with the meal which were all great. The entire meal was perfectly cooked and seasoned, and left us wondering if there are any restaurants in town that aren’t amazing.
After dinner we stopped by Alle Logge di Piazza for, you guessed it, more wine and espresso, as well as lemon cake. The night ended around 11 PM for some much need rest.
Finishing this entry at an internet cafe in town, I am anxiously awaiting our first wine tasting of the day. The Brunello is truly one of the most amazing wines in the world, and deserves the attention that we’re giving it on this trip to be truly appreciated. We’re off to the castle and a few vineyards, I’ll write more when we find time.
And although I never want to leave, I’m thinking I’ll have to come home eventually…just to learn Italian so I can move back here!
Ciao!
Germany, then Italy…it all begins on Monday!
November 1, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
I’m too excited to hold out any longer. This Monday, November 5th I’ll be heading to Germany for a couple weeks to spend time at my family’s house with Kim and my mother. During my visit, I’ll be heading to Italy for 10 days to enjoy wines in Piemonte and Montalcino. I will try my best to keep an updated blog while I’m there, but I can assure you that many reviews, pictures and stories will be soon to follow my trip.
The plan:
Nov. 6 - Arrive in Frankfurt, Germany. My cousin is picking us up and driving us to Herborn. I will spend the next week with my family and visiting German vineyards and Biergartens!
Nov. 12 - Train ride to Florence. From there we’re renting a car and will spend the next 10 days between Piemonte and Montalcino. I love Barolo’s and Brunello’s…so I couldn’t have dreamed a better way to spend ten days!
Nov. 21 - Back to Baltimore in time to have Thanksgiving with the dogs, David Battani and his lovely girlfriend! (Kim will stay in Germany for work).
The weather is pretty mild, bearing on cold even, but more the reason to consume a lot a hearty German and Italian food and wine!
If anyone has recommendations on vineyards to visits, places to eat or stay, or anything else, please let me know! Also, if you’re in the areas I mentioned and interested in having dinner and wine, drop me a message!
Cheers
Castiglione del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino (2001) -$40
August 29, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
Back to Montalcino…a small town in Tuscany known for it’s brilliant sangiovese (Brunello). This Castiglione del Bosco has very nice color and depth. Big dark cherry and blackberry fruits with oak and vanilla notes augment medium tannins that are velvety and clean. Would benefit from two more years in the cellar, but decanted for over an hour it drank very nice. Another fine example of the amazing 2001 vintage in Montalcino. Buy these up while you still can! My rating- 91 pts
A taste of Tuscany for half the price…sort of!
August 28, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
This weekend my good Brandon came to visit Baltimore. He drove down Friday from Michigan and after a long drive, was ready to relax and have some wine. We went over to The Wine Source (Hampden, Baltimore, MD) for a free wine tasting (every Friday afternoon) of Portuguese wines and picked up a few meats, cheeses, breads, and most importantly some wine.
As I’ve been very interested in Italian food and wine lately, and since Brandon has had very little Italian wine, I focused on Italy. We grabbed some prosciutto di parma and two salami’s, as well as two cheeses. Seeing as all of our food items were from Tuscany, I picked 3 tuscany reds, as well as one bottle of Gavi to get the night started (all 375 mL bottles). The following tasting notes outline our wines for the evening. The half-bottles allowed us to try 4 different wines for less than half the price of the full bottles without wasting a drop!
Villa Sparina Gavi (2004) - Nose of lavender, minerals and reminances of the ocean. Floral notes with pear, honey and melon. Crisp with a light, refreshing, semi-sweet finish. My rating- 87 pts
Ruffino Chianti (2004) - Nice nose - earthy with cherry, raspberry, hint of plum. Acidity is refreshing and balanced with the smooth tannin structure. Great finish makes this a nice everyday wine at a good price. My rating - 90 pts
Avignonesi - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (2003) - Ruby color. Green pepper, butter, cherry, clay on the nose. Truffles and berry with a hazelnut finish. Needs more time to open up. My rating - 88 pts
La Gerla - Brunello di Montalcino(2001) - Big nose, blackcherry, toasted oak. Silky and well integrated tannins. Nice wine. My rating - 91 pts
One last note: We enjoyed a Bianchetta al Tartufo goat cheese (Tuscany) with all three of the reds, especially the Avignonesi. The truffle in the wine really complemented this truffle-infused goat cheese - one of the best wine/cheese pairings I’ve had to date! Note: Image linked from: http://www.wineroutes.co.uk
2001 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano - A perfect wine?
August 20, 2007 by michael · Leave a Comment
As many of you know, this year for the first time ever we saw the release of not one, but two wines that scored 100 pts from Brunello di Montalcino, one being the 2001 Valdicava Madonna del Piano Riserva (image to the left is from the Valdicava Estate). I really enjoy Brunello’s. I love the rich texture and soft, earthy tannins. The fruits are complex and the finish often goes on and on. I have the 1999-2000 vintages of Valdicava (normale) in my cellar right now. I’ve tasted the 2001 vintage of the non-reserve wine, another stellar wine (98 pts), and hope to pick up a bottle or two for cellaring at some point in the near future. This being said, I had not given much thought to acquiring the low production (500 cases), expensive Riserva which I felt would be too hard to find and possibly, not worth the $250-$400 price tag.
Until last week!
I was in the Wine Source (Hampden, Baltimore, MD) picking up some cheeses, meats, and a nice super Tuscan to go with dinner (2003 Fattoria Capannacce Rosso Della Maremma, $15, which was very good and paired great with the goat cheese we had from the same region, as well as the prosciutto di parma). Among the Brunello’s I saw two bottles of the 2001 Valdicava Riserva…on sale for a lot less than the lowest price one could find anywhere online. Without hesitation…and maybe without thinking clearly, I grabbed one and ran (to the cash register of course).
I do not usually get caught up in ratings, and rarely buy a wine to put in the cellar without having it first, but this wine is different. It’s said to be one of the finest Brunnelo’s ever made. I’ve tasted the 2001 Valdicava non reserve which was young, but very good. I can only imagine what the 2001 Riserva will be like in 6 or more years!
