The answer to “why are you so into wine?” (with some ridiculous tasting notes)

As many of you may know, I’m helping a restaurant rebuild their wine program from the ground up. This has involved tasting over a 1000 wines in the last 8 weeks (many more notes to come), meeting reps, etc. It’s been a lot of fun and a great learning experience.

Last night I was at the restaurant to meet with a rep when a party came in of 12 that we gave the OK to BYO (Bring Your (their) Own). Little did i know, these guys were a serious group of wine lovers who drink some pretty serious stuff. Having done many of these dinners myself, I know how tough it can be on service to maintain glassware, pours, and proper wine handling with just one server. So, I offered to stay in the restaurant and oversee/run their wine service for them which they very happily accepted. The group gave me full authority on building the flights, decanting wines, etc….as well as pairing with their dinner. It was a lot of fun!

A couple Champagne’s and a ‘92 Ridge Zinfandel into the night…a few of the guys suggest I taste with them. I of course said thank you and as they finished a bottle off (2-3 oz’s left in each) I took a small pour of each to taste (and take meticulous notes on!). This led to one of the guys insisting I try every wine WITH them to share the experience. The amazing level of generosity in this group was unprecedented- they were giving me pours of everything in volumes that were the same as they were drinking. In the end I waived their corkage and gave a few free pours of Cognac to those who were interested (the gentleman who brought the Lafite got two large pours!). The very least I could do for their outstanding generosity!

This night rivals any night of wines I have ever experienced and may in fact be the most ridiculous lineup I’ve had! Below are the notes on the wines. The best news is I made many new friends- they loved the food and will be back in the future. Also, I was invited to have dinner with a couple of them in the near future.

Sometimes people ask me why I am so into wine. Is it just because wine tastes good? Am I looking for an excuse to drink a lot? Am I trying to be “cool”? I generally go into the fact that I love wine for the culture of wine. The history and art of wine. Also because wine brings people together, friends new and old, family, loved ones over a big table of food and a few bottles of great wine. Enjoying stories and creating new ones.

But, I think next time someone asks me why I am so “into” wine…I’ll just send them a link to this post and they can figure it out for themselves.

Cheers!

I left prices out from the list below, but I will just say the range is from a few hundred to up to $1600 / bottle! There is no real reason to assess QPR- all of these wines are very special and each is an outstanding QPR in my book!

1996 Veuve Clicout Brut Champagne Gold Label Vintage Réserve: Straightforward Veuve with baked biscuit and grapefruit nose, very crisp and fresh on the palate. Very nice way to start the night but not blowing me away. A good Champagne. My rating: 90 pts

1997 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo Ripe al Convento Riserva: Aromatic and enticing this ‘97 is still a youngster. Layers of dark fruit, tar, wet soil, and twigs dance on the palate with medium to large tannins and good length on the finish. Very elegant example of Brunello. I’d give this 2-3 more years in the cellar as it has some time until everything comes together. My rating: 96 pts

1999 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo Ripe al Convento Riserva: Next to the ‘97 this wine shows darker fruit and much greater tannins. Similar earthiness to the wine highlighted by the layers of dark fruit and a touch of spice. Very impressive structure- give this infant a rest until 2012 or later! My rating: 96 pts

1997 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto: A very delicate Barolo showing a variety of red and dark fruits, clove notes, tobacco and licorice. Very fine, medium tannins and great length on the finish. Drinking VERY well right now (opened for 3 hours) but definitely structured to last many years. My rating: 92 pts

1990 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina: Blackberry, currant, spice notes dominate the palate while fairly moderate-sized tannins bring some excitement to the midpalate. A hint of earth/spice comes and goes on the long finish. This wine is holding up VERY well and should do so for many years to come. My rating: 92 pts

1986 Gruaud Larose: Very mature and drinking well. Some of the fruits took backstage to a bell pepper, spice, anise component but overall the wine showed good integration and balance. Drink in the next couple years with a leg of lamb! My rating: 92 pts

1984 Monticello Cellars: Long past its peak but still showing some life. The fruits were almost faded completely, tannins soft and dusty, with earth and a very distinct coffee note. My rating: 84 pts

2003 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild: The aroma’s of tobacco, cassis, anise, and dark fruits were intoxicating. Great concentration of dark fruit wrapped up tightly in a bundle with cigars, soil, smoke and some dried herbs. Albeit very young, this wine was very approachable after 3 hours in the decanter though I can only imagine what 15+ years in the cellar would do for it. The tannins in this wine were massive but at the same time they were so elegant and refined…truly a great wine. My rating: 96 pts

2001 Dal Forno Romano Amarone: Someone please pinch me…holy richness. Amazing depth and concentration with dried fruits, raisins, plum, cassis, sweetness on the tannins. This wine could define “layers and layers of complex flavors” as it’s incredibly structured and very exciting. Young? Yes. Enjoyable now? Yes!!! My rating: 96 pts

1985 Graham’s Vintage Porto: A very concentrated port that has decades to go before it all comes together. Sweet surypy deliciousness with ripe fruit, burnt vanilla, toasted oak, and outstanding structure. A real treat to finish off a night of outstanding wines. My rating: 95 pts

1986 Chateau d’Yquem: One of the finest wines I’ve had to date. Incredibly complex, great structure, and in its “youth” very approachable. Opened 1 hour prior to pouring. Beautiful nose of vanilla bean, lemon merenge pie, toasted nuts. Great depth with concentrated fruits and a finish that almost doesn’t finish. A drinking window on this might be now through 2050 or more! Outstanding wine- one to be enjoyed with great friends and family. My rating: 97+ pts

A couple notes: Also, I had a ‘95 Chianti Classico Riserva of which I didn’t take down the name. Finally, they had a few other wines in the bunch which I did not get to! All wines were opened for at least 2 hours before service (minus the Champagne). At the end of the night I got to revisit many of these wines as they had tons of left overs they very graciously left in my hands!

Food, Wine, Culture TV: Episode 16: A 1998 Brunello di Montalcino

Food, Wine, Culture TV: Greg Bissonette joins me (Michael Mohammadi) for a tasting of a 1998 (year I graduated high school!) Brunello di Montalcino!
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Sotto Sopra Wine Tasting

I realize this is a bit late in coming, but I finally found my list of wines from that evening and as best I can remember them, I figured I should write something, at the very least!  The first of the monthly, 1st Thursday Tasting events at Sotto Sopra went off very well, with a large crowd, interesting people, along with good wines and good foods.  I’m looking forward to October’s wine tasting!

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First-time visitors guide to Montalcino

This past November Kim and I spent nine days dining and wine tasting in one of the most highly acclaimed wine regions in the world. On our trip to Montalcino, we abandoned the guide books that helped us in Florence, Siena and Bologna and decided that we would just find places that looked good and take our chances. The result was quite surprising: two of the more highly recommended establishments were let downs while many of the smaller, lesser known restaurants gave us great food, outstanding service and overall incredible dining experiences. This short guide will hopefully give you an idea on where to eat, drink and stay if you don’t have time to try every place out for yourself. For those of you who aren’t traveling to this beautiful hilltop town, you’re missing out on some of the best food and wine the world has to offer.

Related links:

• Alone in Montalcino
• Banfi’s Empire
• What is Brunello?

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20 Great Value Wines: How to drink good wine when gas is $5.00 a gallon or more

The current economy has most of us cutting back on non-essentials, driving less, and trying to find ways to save a few bucks. Below is a list of wines that you can afford by cutting back on two gallons of gas or less (most are under $10!). For specific recommendations on wines, wine regions, wine pairings, or anything related to value wines, leave a comment. Have a favorite wine under $10 that I missed? Let us know about it! (Image: WINE AND MONEY© Kvkirillov | Dreamstime.com)

Here are my top picks for value wines, producers, and wine regions. Keep in mind that an 85 is a “Very Good” wine and shouldn’t be overlooked. Too often reviewers and magazines want you to think that only 90 point wines are worth drinking…this isn’t the case and can become quite expensive! An 85 point wine is a wine that I consider to be very good, and would buy again.

Keep an eye out for my report next week on the best wineries and wine regions when it comes to quality and value!

Twenty Great Value Wines: (Click here to download this as a shopping list in PDF Form)

Sparkling

N.V. Riondo Prosecco Veneto IGT -$12 (Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT): Sealed with a traditional cork requiring a cork-screw. A little sweet, hint of yeast, a little fruity, not a lot of fizz but quite refreshing. Overall good appertif, nice flavors. My rating: 87 pts, GV (Good Value)

N.V. Roederer Estate Brut -$21 (USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley): This is the most expensive wine I put on the list, with all the others being $12 or less. But for the price, you get good value here. Apples and citrus on the palate, a very crisp wine with subtle nuttiness and caramel. Nice finish- a great bottle of a special dinner on a budget. My rating: 89 pts, GV Read more

TN: 2001 Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino

2001 Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino:  Purchased at vineyard. Decanted 30 minutes, drank over 2 hours. Another very enjoyable bottle of this ‘01 Brunello. Loads of dark fruit, elegant tannins, great spice and earth notes with a complex finish. My Rating: 92 pts

More on the Brunello saga…

For the past two months some producers of Brunello di Montalcino, one of the premier wines in the world, have been investigated for blending their Brunello (100% Sangiovese-based wines) with Cabernet and Merlot. Amidst these allegations, the United States Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has stepped in to ensure that the wines that reach our dinner tables are the real thing. Decanter Magazine is reporting that imports of Brunello into the United States may be delayed beginning June 9, 2008.

From Decanter: “Francesco Marone Cinzano, president of the trade body, the Brunello Consorzio, said… ‘Starting on 9 June, the US will block all Brunello imports unless the wine is accompanied by laboratory analysis proving that the wine is pure Sangiovese.”

I understand regulations on producers to ensure that Brunello is in fact 100% Sangiovese, but is this level of control necessary? Is it really feasible to ask this of all 200 or so producers that export wines to the US? What do you think: has it gone too far, or is this an important step in preserving the tradition and integrity of one of the worlds most amazing wines?

Image: Taken in Montalcino of an Enoteca on one of the main roads into town.

Hegemony in Montalcino? A visit to Castello Banfi.

The car ride from the city circle in Montalcino to Castello Banfi estate is a breathtaking 15 minute drive on windy, narrow roads with post-card worthy views in every direction. Resting on the edges of the Montalcino DOCG, Castello Banfi has built a small wine and olive empire that spans some 7000 acres (1/3 vine, 1/3 grove, 1/3 forest). By comparison, the average Montalcino vineyard has roughly 25 acres. This American-owned estate is currently one of the most famous producers in Tuscany with tens of thousands of cases of each wine produced, much of it being shipped to the US.

From the time you turn onto the estates private roads, you realize that this isn’t just another Montalcino vineyard. Driving in the countryside of other parts of this wine region, we see signs claiming different patches of grape vines. Usually, in a minute or two in the car you pass by different sign after different sign, building appreciation for the small vineyard area and productions. Best said by a winemaker we spoke with, “This is what Montalcino is supposed to be about.”
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Two Flavors of Sangiovese di Montalcino: Rosso and Brunello

The small Tuscan DOCG around the city of Montalcino has been the center of attention lately following allegations that winemakers were using non-Brunello grapes in the production of the famed Brunello di Montalcino. The Brunello grape is really just a clone of Sangiovese that was first planted by the Biondi Santi family in the late 19th centruy. Up until the 1940’s many producers in and around Montalcino did not pursue the grape. It wasn’t until 1945 when Brunello really began to gain attention and saw widespread plantings. Today Brunello makes up one of the most prized wines in Tuscany and one of the premier wines of Italy. When well made, Brunello has fine tannins, wonderful fruit character and elegance. When combined with the tradition and romance of the history of Brunello, make this wine one of the most sought after in the world.

Today there are strict rules regulation the production of Brunello di Montalcino. These include:

• use of only the Brunello grape
• normale bottling: released 50 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle
• riserva: released 62 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle

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Wednesday Wine Rant - 03/26/08 - Brunello, Brunello - say it ain’t so.

I LOVE BRUNELLO. You all are aware that Brunello di Montalcino is one of my favorite wines. The “Brunello” grape is a specific clone of the Sangiovese grape that is unique to the area surrounding Montalcino (Tuscany), having first been planted in the 1800’s by the Biondi Santi family. Today, Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s most prized wines made by over 200 producers, all who have to stick to the basic formula:

• 100% Brunello clone of Sangiovese
• Normale Bottling: released 50 months after harvest (minimum 2 years aged in wood, 4 in bottle)
• Riserva bottling: released 62 months after harvest (minimum 2 years aged in wood, 4 in bottle)

The result of this process is a beautiful developed wine with concentrated, ripe fruits when young and delicate tannins with age. (Image taken this past November of downtown Montalcino, from the fortress!).

No one likes a cheat. It seems like some Montalcino vinters aren’t playing by the rules. Wine Spectator’s James Suckling blogged on the topic last week, mentioning the allegations that some winemakers are adding other grapes to their Brunello blend to make it more fashionable for todays wine consumer. He noted that this was merely allegations and no formal accusations were made towards any one vineyard.

Well today, our friends at Vinowire.com have reported that they have direct confirmation from the president of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, Stefano Campatelli, stating that the allegations are in fact under investigation and it appears there is some truth to them. I have contacted the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino for further comment and will update you when I hear anything.

From Vinowire: “Stefano Campatelli, who has confirmed that “irregularities” have been found in wines labeled as Brunello produced by at least twenty producers in Montalcino. According to outside sources who have requested anonymity because they were not permitted to speak publicly about the investigation, that number could be as high as 80 or 90.”

Please, say it ain’t so…

For more on the topic, check out the story on Vinowire.com. I’m almost afraid to follow this story to find out which of my beloved Brunello producers are guilty of this terrible crime. More reading and initial report here: Vino al vino

Recipe and Tasting Notes: Grilled Lamb Ribs and a 1995 Brunello di Montalcino

Some Thursday night meals are just better than others. This one was, well, better than most. As you may know, twice a year I buy a whole lamb from our vet who owns a farm (we buy a cow, as well!) and takes outstanding care of her livestock. It’s quite nice to know you’re buying meat from animals that were well taken care of, especially with all of the problems with abuse in the large slaughterhouses. The result of this great care is beautiful cuts of meat that are filled with flavor!

For tonight’s dinner I came up with a rub using some ingredients we had around the kitchen and used it to make grilled lamb ribs. I really enjoy cooking when we haven’t gone shopping in a while; it’s a fun challenge and I usually come up with combinations I haven’t tried before. The result this time was a rib of lamb, rubbed with a dry rub of sage/garlic/thyme/capers (and more) and grilled to juicy perfection!

Here are the tasting notes on the wine (from my favorite wine region in the world, Montalcino) which I acquired recently from a collector with a cellar deep in Italian greats. Overall, the wine was very good- making me miss Montalcino even more!
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Tasting Notes: 3 wines from Tuscan producer Il Borro

2006 Il Borro “Lamelle” - $N/A:
Composition: Chardonnay
Tasting notes: Pale yellow color with aroma’s of wet stone, apple, and an interesting sweaty t-shirt component. On the palate flavors of pear and a touch of honey, with mineral notes combined with a medium body and nice acidity on finish. A lot of nice individual components that never really come together completely. My rating: 87 pts, No value rating - price not available.
Side notes: Overall a nice Chardonnay. Not overly complex but had good weight and a nice touch of acidity that went well with Lobster Tempura. Not sure the domestic pricing on this one, but if it’s under $20 it will be a decent buy.

2005 Il Borro “Pian di Nova” - $20:
Composition: 75% Syrah, 25% Sangiovese - 12 months Allier oak barriques - malo-lactic fermentation. 6 months bottle age. 13.5% Alcohol.
Tasting notes: Deep ruby color. Blackberry, red bell pepper, spicy V-8, dark and dark raspberry on the nose. Lot’s of spice up front, creamy texture, black fruits, and vanilla flavors with medium tannins. Nice hints of red pepper and fruit on the finish. My rating: 89 pts, GV
Side notes: Wine Spectator gave this wine a measly 83 pts, but I found it to be quite good. It’s a different style of wine - if you like spicy red pepper and vegetable notes, this one’s for you. Would be great with a Cajun spiced strip steak.

2004 Il Borro “Polissena” -27$:
Composition: 100% Sangiovese - 12 months Allier oak barriques - malo-lactic fermentation. 6 months bottle age. 13.0% Alcohol.
Tasting notes: Aroma’s of minerals, earth, some heat, nutmeg, cinnamon, red fruits, plum. Light body with good fruits near mid-palate that fall off near the finish. My rating: 87 pts, OKV
Side notes: A decent wine - lighter in style than the Pian di Nova and a little less interesting. There is a nice earth and wood component to it, but the flavors fall off for a bit close to the finish and for almost $30, this one is a pass for me.

WBW #42 - Italian Wine in Just Seven Words

This months Wine Blogging Wednesday theme was “Italian Wines in Just Seven Words” and is hosted by Spittoon (they spit so we can swallow!). This creative theme asks us wine bloggers to choose an Italian wine and sum it up in seven words. Although it sounds easy, for a bunch of people who love wine and really love writing (often so much that we just go on and on and on…) this task was a good challenge. I found it particularly challenging due to my love of Italian wine. Eventually I chose a wine and threw out some words that I feel best represent my experience. Be sure to check out Spittoon in the next few days to read a recap of what everyone tasted!

The wine I chose is the 2004 Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano. This Chianti Riserva consists of the following grape varietals: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Merlot and costs around $18 USD.  I gave the wine a very respectable 89 pts.

2004 Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano:

“Closed for business - opens in three hours.”

You can see my full tasting note here. 

TN: 2004 Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano

2004 Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano: 2/12/2008 (tasted for Wine Blogging Wednesday: Popped and poured. The wine has an ink-deep purple color. The nose was completely closed during the first hour…initial flavors were some sour cherry, a lot of wet forest, not much fruit showing on the palate.

Decanted. After 2+ hours of sitting, the wine completely changed. Now on the nose I get cola, cherry, a cedar component and possibly a smoky vanilla component. The palate has opened up quite a bit- still a good mineral/earthiness to the wine, but now the cherry really comes through, as does a hint of raspberry and burnt wood near the finish. The tannins are noticeable, but not too tough, and the finish lasts a while. Good wine overall - good balance. Decant for a long time or sit on this for a few more years. Good value for the price. My rating: 89 pts, GV (good value)

Wine Club Meetup Recap: Italian Wines at Iggies on 01/30/2008

On January 30, 2008 our wine club took over the back half of Iggie’s Pizza in Mt. Vernon to try our luck with Italian wines under $20 paired with the best pizza in Baltimore. Being a “BYOB” establishment, and having outstanding food, Iggie’s was the perfect place for this month’s gathering. A huge thanks to Lisa and Peter, as well as the staff at Iggie’s for everything!

The group of 20 people begin arriving at 7:00 PM and by 7:30 Heather and I had all the wines organized and brown-bagged (Heather (on the right in this image with Mary) did most of the work so I could welcome guests and remain blind to what bottles were under which bag). In total we had 11 wines from all over Italy - a focus in Piemonte and Tuscano as one might expect.

The night began with a small group of us that arrived early tasting a Prosecco by Martini & Rossi. The bottle had a unique closure for a wine - an actual bottle cap, reminiscent of a large glass bottle of soda or some other everyday beverage. The new design hopes to give the Prosecco more of an every-day feel and although I was first put off by it, I found it to be pretty cool and a great way to make drinking a sparkling wine with dinner more informal and fun. The Prosecco itself was a great appertif with a touch of fizz, grapefruit and pear flavors, and some sweet fruits on the finish. It rolls in at $12 and was a fun way to start off the night.

As we took our seats, food was ordered, names were yelled out from behind the kitchen, and soups, salads and pizza began finding their way to their rightful owners. The tasting began. We had two bottles of each wine (except for 3, which we had plenty of to go around) and two tables of people - each table having their own bottle. Everyone had their tasting sheets and pens ready, and when they weren’t enjoying the pizza or taking in sniffs of wine, everyone (except for Erik who is pictured here fighting off Miranda’s attempt to steal his wine!) was scribbling notes and discussing the components of each wine. Two hours after it began, the tasting ended with the group in agreement: a pretty lousy showing of wines (including one selection brought by a very famous food and wine blogger who will remain nameless for reputations sake).

In the end, there were three voted winners, and one, almost unanimous loser (sorry Carlos…maybe most American’s just aren’t ready for Lambrusco, we look happy tasting it in this picture though!). I’ve posted notes on the three wines of the night below, as well as a few that were in the lineup that you’ll definitely want to avoid! (Picture here is of Aubrey and Kim, trying to figure out the funk coming from one of the wines!)

After the tasting a few of us were discussing next months theme - before I give any details, I’m going to suggest two dates: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 or Tuesday, February 26, 2008. Whichever I get more feedback for, will be the date we meet on!

Thanks to everyone who came out, especially the new people! It was really a pleasure meeting you all and I look forward to seeing you all at future events.

Wines of the night by popular vote, as well as my personal tasting notes):

1st place (tie) - Brought by Scott:
Castello Banfi - Rosso di Montalcino (2003) - $25: Wet forest and raspberry nose, dusty, dark fruits, cherry - well structured, big tannins with balance and finesse. Long finish, this is drinking very well right now. My rating: 91 pts, VGV (very good value)

Castello Banfi - Rosso di Montalcino (2004) - $25: Deeper color than the ‘04, smoke, dark fruits on the nose. Sour cherry and spice notes, but lacks balance. Medieet licorice aroma. Medium bodied with ripe fruits and tannins that match the acidity well and carry through a 20 second finish. enjoyable. My rating: 89 pts, GV (Good value)

2nd place - Brought by Ahleah/Mary:
Marenco Piemonte Barbera Pirona - (2005): Deep purple color, cherry, blackberry cedar, sweet licorice, good acidity and medium tannins - 20 second finish. Nice wine for the price. My rating: 87 pts, VGV.

3rd Place: Erik Banti I Pianetti Vino da Tavola (2005) -Brought by Colleen et al.: Deep plum color. Cassi, dark fruits, peppermint, plum and mushroom flavors. Sour cherry on the mid palate with the right amount of tannins and acidity. My rating: 88 pts, GV

Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the Year - What I thought!

This month The Wine Spectator released it’s top 100 wines of the year. Without getting into what I thought of their selections, and with 2008 a few days away, I thought I’d recap my tasting notes on the wines that made Wine Spectator’s top 100 that I was lucky enough to try. Unfortunately, the high prices of those wines in the top 50 were too much for me to taste more than a few! Maybe next year we’ll see more value wines making the top 50! NOTE - I’ve listed Wine Spectator’s ratings (WS Rating) and rank. For information on my Value Rating System, check out my ratings page.

Without further ado:

8. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love 2006 ($80): Opened and tasted immediately: Mushroom, plum, cherry, big fruits, big yet soft tannins. Decanted. 2 hour decant: Great color. Still tight on the nose. The initial mushroom note is gone with the appearance of a musty-forest floor with a touch of pepper and bacon. On the palette it’s toasted cedar, vanilla, plum, pretty solid through the middle with a long, complex finish that goes on and on. At this point I’m definitely seeing 96 pts or more. 3 hour decant: Again showing better, more buttery now with a bit more spice. The fruits in this wine just don’t stop. Quite pleasing and still 96+ points. 4 hour decant: Just as elegant as before. I’m quite impressed with the structure of this wine and overall quality. Very good. A very solid 96 points. My rating: 96 pts, GV. WS Rating: 95 pts

12. Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva 2001 ($175): I have yet to try this wine, but it’s in the cellar and will be opened in 10 years or so!

16. Schild Shiraz Barossa 2005 ($25): Decanted - big dark fruits, spice, tobacco on the nose. On the palate the wine is explosive with big, dark fruit, leather, plum, tar. Smooth tannins, long finish - pretty straight forward big Aussie Shiraz if that’s your style, you’ll like this wine (the 2004 was a better wine overall). We had this twice and it was consistently good. My rating: 90 pts, GV. WS Rating: 93 pts

37. Navarro Zinfandel Mendocino 2004 ($19): Blueberry, blackberry, cherry and some spice notes on the nose, as well as a small petrol component. Very good balance given the amount of alcohol, smooth tannins and a medium-long finish. A good Zin and great value. Tasted 3 times with consistent notes and evaluation. My rating: : 93 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 92 pts

62. Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques 2005 ($22): Decanted 1 hour. Earthy tones, cherry, raspberry and other bright fruits. On the palate the wine was very well balanced, with dusty tannins and a earthy, medium-length finish. Should get better with a couple years, drinking nice now with a long decant. My rating: 93 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 91 pts

71. Columbia Crest Merlot Columbia Valley Grand Estates ($11): Deep reddish plum in color with notes of plum, raspberry, vanilla and blueberry on the nose. The body is surprisingly creamy with soft tannins layered with good fruit and tar flavors. Long finish accented by a subtle chocolate note - well made bargain Merlot. Buy a case and enjoy one of the best values out there. My rating: 89 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90 pts

72. Yellow Tail Shiraz South Eastern Australia The Reserve 2005 ($11): With all the hype about the Yellowtail reserve Shiraz, I felt it would be fun to grab a bottle and see for myself whether it was warranted. I did not taste this blind, but I wish I had, it was very good. The wine was filled with dark fruits and spice with surprising balance and really smooth tannins. The finish fell apart a bit, but overall the wine is a great value and highly recommended as a daily drinker. My rating: 88 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90pts

77. Heidsieck Monopole Brut Champagne Blu Top NV ($35). Tasted from 375 mL bottle. Pale yellow color with plenty of tiny bubbles. Apple, pear, buttered toast with good balance. Light, crisp, and very refreshing. My rating: 90 pts, VGV. WS Rating: 91 pts.

92. Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2006($14): Pale yellow color. On the nose is wet stone, pear, honey and a touch of lemon rind with citrus, pear and some more honey on the palate. This wine has some wild acidity but it’s not overwhelming and makes it a great spring/summer wine served with spicy cuisine. The finish is crisp and very refreshing. A great value wine from an outstanding producer. My rating: 91 pts, OV. WS Rating: 90pts

100. Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2004 ($70): Tasted twice. August 2007 - Filled with dark fruits, berry, currant, chocolate, touch of oak. Firm tannins, long finish. Another great wine from a great producer with good aging potential. My rating: 93 pts, CV. WS Rating: 92 pts

Caymus tasted again 12/26/07: Decanted 30 minutes at a wine bar. Real tight nose, blackberry, black currant, leather. On the palate the wine was a bit off from the other time I’ve had this and rated it 93 pts…the tannins were rough with a medium-long finish. Not corked, but maybe an off bottle. My rating: 87 pts (PV, poor value as it showed this time around).

Alone in Montalcino - A visit in November

(Article truncated due to space) Situated in the heart of Tuscany 70 miles south of Florence, the city of Montalcino is filled with post-card worthy scenery and world class food and wine. The town, whose name comes from a type of oak tree that once covered the region, occupies roughly 94 square miles of hillside, vineyards and olive groves, with the highest point being the location of the main Fortress at around 3000 feet above sea level. In the spring, summer an fall Montalcino is packed with tourists looking to experience the food, wine and Montalcine culture first hand. But it’s in the winter, when most traveler’s seek warm destinations that I find Montalcino to be an ideal escape from the stress and bustle of our normal lives.      (continued - long Article - Click here to continue reading)- Image is at the Fortress- You can see Kim near the turret off in the distance!

Alone in Montalcino - A visit in November

Situated in the heart of Tuscany 70 miles south of Florence, the city of Montalcino is filled with post-card worthy scenery and world class food and wine. The town, whose name comes from a type of oak tree that once covered the region, occupies roughly 94 square miles of hillside, vineyards and olive groves, with the highest point being the location of the main Fortress at around 3000 feet above sea level. In the spring, summer an fall Montalcino is packed with tourists looking to experience the food, wine and Montalcine culture first hand. But it’s in the winter, when most traveler’s seek warm destinations that I find Montalcino to be an ideal escape from the stress and bustle of our normal lives. (Image is of the town from the Fortress)

Montalcino is very well known for its wines, which are considered by many to be the best wines in Italy. The most famous, Brunello di Montalcino, comes from a clone of the Sangiovese grape (locally known as Brunello) and made in a style first pursued by the Biando Santi family in the late 1800’s. Made to age, Brunello’s are best 5-10 years after release. Brunello’s younger sibling, Rosso di Montalcino, is also made from Sangiovese, but is created in a lighter, more youthful style and is meant to be consumed upon its release. Great food and wine, as well as breathtaking views and medieval architecture are just a few of the reasons that thousands of visitors come to Montalcino each year.

Most travelers plan their trip to Montalcino for either spring time (release of new wines) or the fall harvest. Others visit during the warm summer months to enjoy walking around town, driving to one of the over 200 vineyards, and relaxing on their hotel terrace enjoying some of the most beautiful landscape the world has to offer. But few visit in the winter months when winds howl through the narrow cobblestone streets and thick morning fogs blanket the normal 30 mile views of mountains and vineyards. (Image is from our hotel window a morning the fogs came in)

Last month Kim and I took it upon ourselves to spend a week in Montalcino during the off-season to see what, if anything, people were missing out on. After our first night in the city, we knew that we were in for something special.

Unlike the busy season, the restaurants were never crowded and in a week of dining we did not need a reservation or to wait for seating. The dozen or so wine shops were most often empty, with perhaps one or two other couples browsing through the hundreds of Brunello’s and Rosso’s on the fully stocked shelves that each Enoteca had to offer. Shop-owners were glad, maybe even surprised, to have visitors this time of year and were more than willing to answer our questions, spend time explaining the history of Brunello, and pour wines for us to taste. It was like the town was waiting for us to arrive and once we had, everyone was ready to do their part to ensure the trip was special.

Montalcino’s bakeries and cafe’s were filled with locals buying their daily breads and meats, or having a morning, daytime or late-night espresso. Even the 14^th century Fortress, a major tourist attraction, was almost deserted. At the Fortress Enoteca we did meet an older couple from New York City who (I thought jokingly) asked: “are the wines here really that good?.” I replied “you have to try them for yourself, but yes, they are incredible.” A quick laugh from the woman then a shocking confession “We don’t drink wine really” she paused waiting for my reaction. After a second of looking a Kim in disbelief, I suggested that they try them anyways, we wished each other a pleasant day, then they left, without trying any wine. It hit me then that Montalcino is much more than wine to a lot of the world.

We also spent some time chatting with a female employee of the Enoteca who was a recent graduate of NYU who moved to Italy to follow her passion for art. She seemed annoyed with interactions with us Americans, though she herself grew up in New York City and had only been in Montalcino a few months. Hopefully she’s prepared for the busy spring and summer seasons, when thousands of Americans will flock to the Enoteca and take advantage of her perfect English/Italian translations.

Our visit up some stairs and a ladder to the top of the Fortress gave us an hour of solitude on the highest point of Montalcino. We walked the perimeter twice, climbing the turrets and looking for the most amazing view we could find. In the hour we were there we took over a hundred pictures of the horizons, the town, the walls of the massive structure and each other. Without another tourist in sight it seemed as if we had all of Montalcino to ourselves.

There were downsides to an off-season visit. Many of the wineries we had hoped to visit were not open for tastings. I guess the owners and workers needed a vacation, too. Among those we did visit was Castello Banfi, an American-owned wine empire filled with English-speaking hostesses, servers, and tour guides. We had an overpriced and overrated lunch in their highly acclaimed Taverna and took a group tour (with 8 other Americans) of the massive wine making facility that was led by a very gracious, English-speaking guide. While at Banfi I felt like I was lost in a California winery as we had grown used to the small-production, intimate wineries like Il Paradiso di Frassina and the others in Montalcino.

All in all, we loved having the narrow cobblestone and dirt roads to ourselves. It’s hard to picture the traffic during peak season. Roads hardly wide enough for one car being filled with parades of tourists looking for the next winery on the map. That just isn’t for me.

There was something unique and authentic about a winter visit to Montalcino that I doubt can be understood in my words or our pictures. The only way to understand it is to take in a breath of cool Montalcine air filled with aroma’s of the changing leaves, resting vines and smoke from the many bon fires and chimney’s across town.

An off-season visit to Montalcino may be the only way to experience the real Montalcino, void of thousands of tourists, busy streets and jam-packed restaurants. With a long, exciting history, amazing vistas and great wine and food Montalcino was destined to become a major tourist destination. I’d just prefer to experience it without all the commotion. I would cherish a visit to Montalcino any time of the year, but if given the choice, I’ll be there in the winter. I’ll see you next November, Montalcino!

Note: All images are copyright Michael Mohammadi, 2007. Please contact: michael@foodandwineblog.com for information on reusing these images.

Brunello Tasting Report Part II - 2000-2002 Vintages

 

Welcome to Part II of the two part series on Brunello di Montalcino! Part I was pre-2000 vintage Brunello’s that were tasted on a recent trip to Montalcino (see image to left!). Here, I offer notes on Brunello’s from vintages 2000-2002. Some of these are not exported, but I felt like including all the notes (well, not all the notes, I have notes on about 3-5 more wines that I need to locate in our receipts and scrap paper!). Overall, the wines were incredible with the 2001 vintage being outstanding (as reported previously by Wine Spectator and others). I had heard a lot of bad press about the 2002 vintage, but overall I didn’t think it was as bad as other critics made it out to be. Sure they won’t hold for as long as the 2001’s, but some of them were drinking quite nicely now. Rest assured though, many of the winemakers informed me that the upcoming vintages should provide some very incredible wines.

Banfi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Nose of dark fruits and toasted oak. On the palate, there is berry and plum, touch of vanilla. The wine is big but lacks real elegance or finesses with a bit of spice and earth component carrying it through a medium finish. Others have rated this wine much higher. My rating: 89 pts, GV

Banfi 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: Very rich, dark fruits, big cigar box component on the nose. Blackberry and cherry through the palate with chocolate standing out. Chewy tannins with some finesse. Good considering the overall quality of the vintage and definitely better than the 2001, which surprised me. My rating: 90 pts, GV

Banfi 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura: Nose of herbs, rosemary and blackberry with a fresh forest component. The style of this wine was very Brunello-esque with a good range of concentrated flavors on the palate, big, velvety tannins and a medium-length finish. Drinking well know, give it another 5 years. My rating: 92 pts, GV

Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto: From a very well known and respected producer, this 2000 Riserva was drinking very nicely. A lot of what I expect from a good Brunello: autumn forest with blackberry, raspberry, licorice. The tannins are very elegant and the finish goes on and on. The 2000 is drinking quite nicely right now and should continue to drink well for 10 years or more. My rating: 94 pts, GV

Image: Vines of di Neri

Casanova di Neri 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto: I had very high expectations for this “100 point wine” (rated by James Suckling of Wine Spectator - see my article on 100 point wines) and was a bit skeptical of what I had read. I was not at all disappointed. There is so much going on in this wine it took me a while to put it into words. I went back and forth between smelling the wine and swirling for an hour, with only a few sips mixed in between. In no particular order I noted blackberry and raspberry, chocolate, currant, smoked wood. The tannins are complex and refined on so many levels and the finish, oh the finish…it’s sad it does eventually finish. This may be one of the first wines I ever give 100 points…but it’s still a few years away from that. Still, a stunning wine. Pricey at release, this wine is unaffordable following the stellar score. My rating: 97 pts, CV

Col d’ Orcia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Decanted from 375 mL. Black cherry, and blackberry with a big earth and forest floor component. Very traditional BdM with mouth-drying tannins, good acidity and a strong finish. The wine was good on it’s own, but really stood out with the roast beef in Brunello sauce. My rating: 90 pts, VGV

Cerbaia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Aged in large, Slovenia oak barrels with grapes from the higher elevations of Montalcino, this Riserva is quite exuberant. The wine really was beautiful in the glass with bright ruby color. The fruits in this wine are elegant with a lot of cherry and blackberry with hints of vanilla throughout. The tannins have great presence and are very refined. A very good Riserva at a very good price (if you can find it). My rating: 94 pts, VGV

Croce di Mezzo 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: Red fruits as well as some dark cherry with a good pepper component on the nose. Big tannins but not very good integration. Spice returns on medium-length finish. My rating: 85 pts, OKV

Fattoi 2001 Brunello di Montalcino : Decanted from 375 mL. Brilliant dark ruby color. Nose and mouthful of ripe dark fruits, leather, spice. Great on the mid-palate with a lot of ripe fruit flavors carrying the wine through medium tannins and good length on the finish. My rating: 89 pts, GV

Ferrero 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: The bottle wasn’t flawed, but it was a bit off. I noted flavors of cherry, mushroom, and cough-syrup with mild tannins and a medium finish. My rating: 83 pts, PV

Image to the left are the vines at Fuligni

Fuligni 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Dark ruby color. On the nose a lot of dark fruits and a touch of vanilla, mushrooms, llicorice. The wine starts and finishes strong – dark cherry, blackberry and anise with big, velvety tannins and a 20-30 second finish. Quite good. My rating: 93 pts, GV

Il Paradiso di Frassina 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Maybe it’s the music that is played throughout the vineyard for the vines, or the love and care of the composer and winemaker, whatever it is, the wines of Il Paradiso di Frassina were very good. This 2001 Brunello showed great fruits and spice notes. The tannins were complex yet soft and the finish offered cherry notes and was long. My rating: 93 pts, VGV

Image to the right is from Il Paradiso di Frassina - Story on this lovely vineyard to come!

Il Paradiso di Frassina 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: This was definitely my favorite of the 2002 Brunello’s that we tasted. It’s location north of Montalcino and at a lower elevation allowed for earlier picking of the best grapes prior to a lot of the bad weather in the 2002 vintage. The nose offered floral notes, cedar and miscellaneous dark fruits with plum and cherry on the palate. Great structure, big tannins and a long, story-telling finish. My rating: 91 pts, VGV

Le Potazzine 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: A lot of fruit on the nose with plum, currant standing out. Big forest floor component. The fruits really stand out early but really come together nicely through the mid-palate with spice notes. Big yet delicate tannins with a long finish highlighted by cherry notes. This opened up very nicely over 30 minutes and I imagine another few years in the bottle would do it wonders. My rating: 92 pts, GV.

La Serena 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Opened for 30 minutes before tasting. Pretty standard Brunello here: dark garnet color, cherry, leather, earth on the nose. Spice notes, earth and dark fruits show up immediately on the palate with the spice returning on the finish. Overall good balance with silky tannins and medium acidity. My rating: 91 pts, GV

Lisini 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia: Great dark ruby color with a nose of cherry, blackberry, vanilla, cedar. Huge body with very big, mouth-drying tannins and very good balance. Long finish with spice showing up near the end. Pricey, but very good. My rating: 95 pts, GV

Mastrojanni 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: An interesting character of a wine from the start. A lot of dried herbs, allspice, currant cherry and a fresh green countryside on the nose. Blueberry and dark cherry on the palate, with a good amount of acidity and moderate tannins, medium finish. A little closed up but approachable. My rating: 90 pts, VGV

Montecarbello 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Purchased at Les Barrique in Montalcino. First bottle was corked and returned to the store. The wine began with a good amount of earth, red and black fruits, earth, spice and dried herbs. Good overall balance with medium tannins and a medium length finish. My rating: 91 pts, VGV

Pietroso 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Plum and berry flavors with thyme and vanilla. Medium bodied, refined tannins, medium finish. My rating: 88 pts, GV

Santa Lucia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Big nose of dark berries and black cherry. Fresh earth component with a touch of spice. Well structured but a bit tight right now with medium tannins. Give it a year or a long decant. My rating: 89 pts, GV

Image to right is of Kim at our tasting at Santa Lucia!

Santa Lucia 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Dark berries, licorice, cedar with a full body, smooth tannins, long finish. Good balance, still a bit tight – a great find. My rating: 92 pts, VGV

Santa Lucia 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: A good value from the 2002 vintage with a nose of black fruits, cedar and a touch of spice with licorice and dark cherry. Good earth component, medium tannins, medium finish. My rating: 87 pts, GV

Valdi Sug 2002 Brunello di Montalcino: My notes on this blend from 3 vineyards in Montalcino were not very detailed. We stopped into the wine tasting room only for a few moments and left having only tried this 2002 BdM. I did note solid dark fruits with good structure and a medium finish. My rating: 86 pts, GV

Verbena 2001 Brunello di Montalcino: Nose has a lot of ripe, dark fruits, vanilla, chocolate and a petrol component. The wine took a while to open but when it did it showed earth, woody blackberry, dark raspberry, and plum notes. Good structure and smooth tannins, medium finish. My rating: 89 pts, GV

Downtown Montalcino: Picture taken from the top of the Fortress:

1st Round of Brunello di Montalcino Tasting Reports: 1990’s

Here are the tasting notes of the few Brunello’s we had from the 1990’s. All wines tasted between 11/10/2007 and 11/18/2007 in Montalcino. I will post the 2000-2002’s in the next week, as there are significantly more of these to type in! For a look at a “Vintage Quality Overview”, click here.

Tenuta di Collosorbo 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Bottle#0177: Bottle opened, no decant but drank over 2 hours. Deep garnet color. Good red fruits on the nose with tons of cherry and raspberry, highlighted by a nice spiciness. On the palate the wine is quite complex with layers of bright fruits, spices and cedar with mouth-drying tannins and a lot of cherry on a very long finish. As the wine evolved, more spice notes emerged and the wine became quite interesting in a good way. Overall the 1993’s are drinking great now. Drink now. My rating: 92 pts

Case Basse (Soldera) Brunello di Montalcino 1997 Riserva: Dark ruby color. A lot of different aromas on the nose. Big cherry, raspberry, sweet spice, maybe vanilla bean, some floral notes as well as earth. On the palate the fruits really strike me as something special. There are layers of cherry and blackberry, and every so often a touch of licorice and a few spices I can’t really decide on what they are. The balance and structure of this wine is near perfect. The tannins delicate…the only flaw? The bottle was only 750 mLs! If you own a bottle, wait 5-10 years. If you own a few, open one now, then every few years until they are gone and enjoy the evolution of a near perfect wine. My rating: 99 pts.

Capanna 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Another example of how well the 1998’s are drinking as a whole right now. Very lovely spice and cherry notes on the nose, as well as a lot of darker fruits. The wine started off with a hint of spice then moved into an earth component, then concentrated fruits and well balanced acidity with medium/big tannins. Worth the money if you can find it. My rating: 93 pts.

Col d’Orcia (Cinzano) Brunello di Montalcino 1999 Riserva Poggio al Vento: (I have this in my notebook, but put details somewhere else, therefore I have to look for my notes on this one!) My rating:

Fuligni 1998 Brunello di Montalcino: Opened and poured, let breathe for 15 minutes in the glass while observing the evolution of the nose. The wine was a nice ruby color, with minor discoloration on the edges. The nose showed cherry, tobacco, blackberry, mushroom, as well as a floral component. The wine had good structure and weight, with soft tannins and a very pleasing, earthy finish. Drink now. My rating: 91 pts. (Picture to left is at Fuligni)

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Alle Mura 1999 Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva): Brilliant dark red color. What started as a brief sniff of the wine ended up as multiple long whiffs of layers of flavors ranging from plum, cherry, dark fruits, vanilla, licorice, and cedar. The fruits in the wine danced with each other across the palate with both sweet and spice notes playing a song. Overall very well integrated with smooth tannins and a long, complex finish. Drinking very nicely right now. My rating: 94 pts.

Col d’Orcia (Cinzano) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 Poggio al Vento: (I have this in my notebook, but put details somewhere else, therefore I have to look for my notes on this one!) My rating:

Santa Lucia 1999 Brunello di Montalcino: Leather, earth, spice, and a touch of floral notes on the nose. On the palate good earth component with subtle fruits and spice, light tannins and a medium finish. Drink now or within the next year. My rating: 89 pts.

Tenuta Caparzo 1999 Brunello di Montalcino: Decanted 1 hour. Good example of the traditional style of Brunello. A lot of black cherries, raspberries, a touch of spice, earth, and a touch of cedar. Well balanced, with elegant tannins that, along with cherry and some interesting spice notes, make for a very good finish. My rating: 91 pts

Did I mention this was an amazing trip? More to come!