Info: 1122 Ninth Street NW, Washington, DC 20001 Phone: 202.589.0699
Hours: Dinner: Monday – Saturday: 5:30pm – 10:30pm, Lunch: Tuesday – Friday: 12:00pm – 2:00pm
Dress Code: Jackets are Preferred for Gentlemen (shorts and hats are not permitted)
Chef and Owner: Tom Power

Kim and I were in DC for a few days for the annual Society for Neuroscience meeting. This gathering of nearly 35,000 neuroscienctists from around the world is a great opportunity to catch up on what’s new in the field, meet up with former colleagues, find a post-doctorate job, and of course get a free trip with an excuse to go out and try new restaurants.

On the recommendation of a good friend of mine who lives in DC (thanks Kevin) we used our one night out alone to try Corduroy. The restaurant is located directly across the street from the DC convention center (which is convenient) on 9th Street and is almost hidden among a variety of row houses and other small businesses.

Entering the restaurant we immediately took note of the simple design and decor. After checking in our coats, we were seated at a very spacious table next to the giant built-in wine cellar (more on this to come). We were promptly greeted by our server, followed by the sommelier who was both knowledgeable and unpretentious. Once he realized that Kim and I are both very much into wine, he offered to show us the cellar. We ordered our first course, enjoyed the Champagne and took him up on the tour.

The main cellar is a very modern design of stained glass walls with simple racking and an intricate storage system. The wine list itself is magnificent for both its selections and its pricing. The list is deep in Burgundy (and other Pinot), the Rhone, and Cabernet from the US and around the world. Most markups were less than twice retail and for those who can’t find a wine they like, Corduroy offers corkage for $30 (only one bottle per table, though). But rest assured that somewhere within the well thoughout list you should be able to find something that tastes suits both your palate and your wallet and pairs well with your cuisine of the night. We settled on a glass of white Burgundy to marry our first courses (duo of lobster) and a bottle of 1998 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Les Hauts Prulieres 1er Cru which was a steal of a value (though not cheap).

While we waited for our ‘98 Burgundy, we enjoyed a carpaccio of lobster with drawn butter and chervil. This dish featured very thinly sliced lobster meat with a beautiful butter and chervil (similar to parsley) sauce. The lobster was very fresh and sweet and the dish as a whole was rich and complex. The white Burgundy could have used more acidity to cut through the creaminess of the dish, but all in all this was a great course. We also tried a roast tail of Maine lobster with two egg linguine which was fantastic. The lobster here was perfectly cooked and the linguine and accompanying sauce brought it all together. Overall I would highly recommend both courses with the caveat that the carpaccio is very rich and could use a wine with good acidity to cut through it all.

Just as we finished our first course, our ‘98 Burgundy arrived. The sommelier opened the bottle away from the table but within plain sight which was OK by me. The wine was served in Riedel Bugundy glasses which was a nice touch. On the nose the 1998 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Les Hauts Prulieres 1er Cru was spicy with dried leaves, loads of red fruit and cola. On the palate the flavors were intense with great balance and a long finish. The wine was phenomenal drinking near its peak and went great with both of our entrees.

Our first main plate featured seared Barnegat light Sea Scallops with Maitake rice porridge. The scallops were seared to perfection while medium rare on the inside. Kim found the rice porridge to be a bit odd as a texture for this dish, but I enjoyed it very much. The dish was almost perfectly seasoned and was a nice transition from the lobster to the next course. The scallops held up well with the Pinot with the light tannins cutting through the porridge helping to cleanse the palate preparing it for the next bite.

Our second main plate was graced with a beautiful venison loin cooked medium rare (perfectly to order) with a chestnut puree that added a variety of flavors and multiple textures. This dish was superb and was the highlight of the meal. The ‘98 Burgundy had just enough fruit and tannin to stand up to the dish without overpowering or being overwhelmed by it.

At this point I overheard a conversation between the gentleman at the table next to us in which they mentioned that they didn’t really get red Burgundy…so on cue, I had our sommelier bring two glasses over and we offered them a pour. This led to 30 minutes of talking about wine, DC, Baltimore, Barack Obama, and science (they happened to be physicians). Both couples were delightful to meet and they all agreed their meal was, too, exceptional (one couple frequents Corduroy regularly).

Near the end of the night I took a solo tour of the bar area upstairs which would fit 10 comfortably and seemed to be well stocked with many top-shelf bourbons, cognacs and other after dinner drinks. Chef Tom Power’s happened to be behind the bar talking with a server so I took the opportunity to introduce myself and thank him for the wonderful meal. He seemed very friendly and very passionate about his work. Following our quick conversation, I returned to the table where we finished our meal with a cheese sampler which was bought for us by our new friends at the table next to us.

Reiterating the theme to “food, wine, beer and culture”, this gathering of new friends over great food and wine is what it’s all about: the experience of it all which allowed the components of the meal to facilitate a shared appreciation for food and wine while putting things in life and culture into context.

Corduroy offers a fine dining experience with all the bells and whistles (and great wine list!) at more-than-fair fine dining prices (1st courses between $10-$18, main courses between $20-$36). Add that with the fact that Chef Power’s (who for many years worked with Michel Richard) may be the best kept “secret” in the mid-Atlantic area and you have a winning combination. I highly recommend Corduroy to those traveling to DC, living in DC, or looking for a reason to travel to DC! It would be the perfect place for a romantic dinner out or a business meeting. Corduroy offers an eclectic menu of expertly and innovative prepared local, seasonal and fresh ingredients. Pair that with a wine list that brings great selection, quality and prices (and great stemware and service) and you have the best pairing there is in food and wine!

Credits: Main image from wikipedia.com commons.