Tasting Report: Good wines and great QPRs from Chilean producer Vina Ventisquero (Chile)

Chilean wines are quickly becoming some of the best QPR (quality-to-price) wines in the market today. From Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet, to the more rare Carmemere, the Chilean wine industry is setting the bar high when it comes to wines that bring big bang for their buck. (click here for more on Chilean wines)

I was recently invited to lunch with Felipe Tosso, head winemaker at up and coming producer Vina Ventisquero. In our two hour lunch I developed an understanding of his style and a respect for his experience and passion, as well as for his commitment to maintain eco-friendly wines. (image from www.intlwine.com/southamerica.htm)

As with a majority of Chilean vineyards, Ventisquero is young. In fact, this year marks the 10th anniversary of Ventisquero’s journey into the wine world. What began as a $60 million investment by Agrosuper, one of Latin Americas top agriculture companies, is today one of the top wineries in Chile and perhaps one of the best value wineries in South America. Vina Ventisquero includes over 3400 acres of vineyards and a world class winery with over 21,500 ton capacity. What this means is over 1.5 million cases of wine being produced each year from fruit in the Casablanca Valley, Rapel Valley, Maipo Valley, Colchagua Valley, and Apalta. Ventisquero has quickly grown into one of Chile’s largest wineries.

Don’t let the youth of their vines fool you- the vineyards are already filled with some great fruit and the winemaking is top notch. Ventisquero’s beautiful, modern winery is located in the Yali Valley. No expense was spared in the design or construction of the winery and throughout the process being “eco-friendly” was of the utmost concern. In fact, a common theme among the vineyards of Ventisquero is keeping things sustainable and having little to no carbon footprint.

Ventisquero, of course, means “glacier”, so it’s only fitting that this winery is committed to reduce their contribution to global warming and do their part in saving what’s left of the Chilean glaciers. Working with the folks at climatecare.org, Ventisquero is committed to the environment- being the first Chilean winery to complete offset their CO2 emissions. All of the fertilizer comes in the form of compost made from the left over grape skins, seeds and stems. Ventisqueror’s passion, hard work and commitment to the environment not only sets an example for other wineries in Chile to follow, but may also be a reason their wines are so good.

But passion, energy and prime vineyard location will only get you so far. So the question remains…how are the wines?

Very good to great. In his short time at Ventisquero, Filipe Tosso has already done some very good things. The first three wines we tasted were all very good values, being under $12 or so at retail pricing. This included a bright, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc, a subtly oaked Chardonnay that is balanced with minerals and a touch of acidity, and a delicious Carmenere that is highlighted by flavors of smoked meat and concentrated fruits. All three are very food friendly wines and I would recommend them based on their QPR.

The other two wines we tasted were higher end Ventisquero wines that are a collaboration with John Duvall, a former Penfold’s Grange winemaker. The first wine, an ‘05 Ventisquero Vertice featured Carmenere and Syrah in a balancing act of spice, smoke, and red fruits with sweet and spicy tannins. The wine was a bit tight but shows great promise. The Ventisquero Pangaea, a predominantly Syrah with about 10% Cabernet was big and juicy, but not overly candied or extracted. This should appeal to both new world and old world Syrah drinkers, pairing nicely with a variety of cuisine and improving with a few years in the cellar. At $48 it carries a hefty price tag, but the quality warrants this price if you like newer world Shiraz.

In a time when new wineries and vineyards are popping up all over the world, and when the price of just about everything is going up, it’s good to have some go-to producers for quality wines across the board. In my limited experience with Ventisquero, I believe this is one of those producers. The under $15 wines are great values and defintely worth seeking out. I’ll be tasting some of the newer releases from this up and coming producer very soon (in a blind tasting lineup) so keep an eye out for more!

Tasting notes:
2006 Ventisquero Sauvignon Blanc $12: Very fragrant nose for a Sauvignon Blanc; floral, citrus, very subtle minerality. On the palate there are generous amounts of ripe fruits and citrus, very big acidity. Tart finish with some serious grapefruit showing up for a bit. My rating: 86 pts, VGV (very good value)

2005 Ventisquero Chardonnay $12: The 10 months in oak didn’t take away from the fruit in this wine. Solid flavors with again good acidity and citrus notes. There is a nice oakiness to the wine, but the minerality and acidity carry it through without it becoming too overpowering. Not overly complex, but clean fruits and good balance make this a winner. My rating: 88 pts, OV (outstanding value)

2006 Ventisquero Carmenere Reserva $12: Mostly Carmenere with a touch of Syrah to spice it up, this is a very unique wine and great QPR. On the nose there is bacon fat, plum, subtle vanilla and oak and a nice smokiness to it. The wine spent 10 months in oak (50% French/50% American) which softened it up nicely. On the palate there is more smoked meat and oak, but a smoky, enjoyable oak. Dark red fruits dominate the palate with good concentration and through the finish there are unique flavors and nice acidity that is a little off-balance but works well. A great wine with food. My rating: 88 pts, OV

2005 Ventisquero Vertice -$35: 55% Carmenere/ 45% Syrah- a collaboration of John Duvall and Felipe Tosso: This wine is brand new to the market. In the glass there is a lively deep violet color. On the nose there aroma’s of smoke, fresh flowers, red fruits and spice. The fruits are concentrated, the tannins spicy and sweet, and the finish medium to long. Decant is suggested- the wine goes great with lamb or grilled meats. A nice effort in this inaugural vintage. My rating: 88 pts, OKV (OK Value)

2005 Ventisquero Pangea Aptalta Vineyard -$48: Syrah/Cabernet (10%)- This primarily Syrah based wine was another collaboration with Penfolds winemaker John Duvall (worked on Grange). His influence is detectable, but this isn’t an Aussie Shiraz by any stretch. It’s not overly extracted or a fruit bomb. That’s not to say there isn’t big dark and bright red fruits and spice. It just isn’t one dimensional and predictable. The extra time in oak (20 months due to bottling issues) served this wine well, making it very approachable now (especially with a decant). The tannins are well rounded, there is a very subtle but refreshing minerality, and the finish is nice. A very good wine now, I look forward to upcoming vintages (especially the highly touted ‘07). Pricey, but if you like concentrated and spicy Shiraz but also enjoy red pepper spice of Syrah, this could be a wine for you. My rating: 90 pts, GV (good value)