“Cruel abuse of wine drinkers” article on Slate.Com about wine service in restaurants

Slate.com writer Christopher Hitchens wrote a piece that appeared yesterday titled “Wine Drinkers of the World, UniteYou have nothing to lose but inflated bills and interrupted anecdotes.” Hitchens’ describes a recent event at a “fairly decent restaurant” in which a server rudely reached across him during a conversation. He goes on to say that “[wine waiters] can be a bit of a grandee, putting on considerable airs that may intimidate those who know little of the subject”. He finishes saying that “people somehow grant restaurants the right to push their customers around in this outrageous way.” While I agree that wine service isn’t always great in restaurants, it is something that you can control by speaking up and it’s surely not something that is going to ruin my meal.

For starters, I will say that I agree that it may have been rude for the server to reach out across him during the middle of a joke, interrupting the table for a few seconds. I wouldn’t do this at my home amongst friends and wouldn’t expect it at a restaurant. I’d simply ask if anyone would like a pour. A small gesture is all it would take, a tip of the bottle and an inquiring facial expression would probably do it while warranting only a nod or shake of the head. That said, it’s not something to get upset about nor would it effect the gratuity I leave or my willingness to return (especially if the food and food service was good, and the wines were good). If it was very intrusive and interrupting, I might quietly tell the server “we’re good for now” and ask that he come back or just leave the bottle. But I wouldn’t be completely offended to the point that I would complain to the management (which Hitchens did not report doing).

I also sympathize Hitchens’ position that sometimes a server will refill wine glasses too quickly and/or pour too much into the glass. But, is it always an attempt to “pad the bill” as he refers to it? Maybe in some cases, but could it not be that many servers feel that they are providing great service- your glass IS always full! Hitchens’ calls this “padding” of the bill the ultimate “form of rudeness”. While I agree it’s shameful and quite rude if this is their intention, it’s easily mediated by simply informing the staff that you would prefer small pours and only when your glass is empty. Be sure to mention you aren’t planning on opening another bottle during the meal and would like the current bottle to last through the end of the dinner.

I concede that service isn’t always tip-top, 100% professional and perfect but does it have to be in order to enjoy the meal? He did say that this was a “fairly decent restaurant?” Should we expect outstanding service regardless of where we dine and how much we are paying? If the server at Outback wasn’t as great as the server at Citronelle (in DC), should I be disappointed and offended? I say not at all. If you want great wine service, go to a “great” restaurant and expect to pay for it.

Here is my advice to those who require great wine service in order to enjoy their meal:

1) state before the wine is poured what your preferences are. For example, “please ask before refilling as not all of us are going to drink more than a glass” or “we’re planning on making this bottle last through the entrees, so easy on the pours please!”

2) inform the sommelier, wine manager, or manager of your specific preferences. If it’s that big of a deal, tell hte management before hand.

3) simply pour for yourself. Just inform that staff that you’ll be handling the wine service. I tend to prefer this option- it keeps the table’s dynamic going and makes the meal more intimate and personal.

I appreciate Hitchens’ article from the perspective that it concludes by informing you, the consumer, to be firm in your desires and requests. But I only remind you not to allow the conditions in which your wine glass is refilled to effect your enjoyment of a good meal and great company.

Image info: © Olivier Le Queinec | Dreamstime.com