“Cellar Notes” on WYPR: Great programming, but not always great advice!

As a PhD student, I spend a lot of time sitting in front of a computer that is attached to electrophysiology equipment, a big microscope equipped with a CCD camera, and a giant laser used to stimulate neurons in rat brain tissue. I spend hours and hours recording electrical activity of neurons with the hope that I’ll positive data so I can graduate some time before the 2005 Bordeaux’s are at their peak (in the next 20-40 years). The advantage to my day is that I can listen to music, podcasts, and watch videos while my experiments are running. Most of the day, though, I am just simply listening to National Public Radio (NPR) trying to keep up on the news, politics and other things going on in Baltimore and the rest of the world.

I think it’s fair to say that I’m slightly addicted to NPR. I listen at all hours of the day and night and home. I am really impressed with our local NPR station (WYPR in Baltimore). One program I really enjoy is a short (5 minutes or so) segment called Cellar Notes. Each day around 5:30 PM Al Spoler and Hugh Sisson discuss wine topics ranging from wine pairing advice and wine events, to recently to the new up and coming varietal.I really enjoy and appreciate the programming, and try to catch it at least a few times a week. I think it’s a great way to get people excited about wines and is very informative and well produced.

In the last few weeks though, two comments were made that I completely disagree with. One, involving American Pinot Noir versus those of Burgundy. The second, being a comment on foods that go better with beer (rather than wine).

Topic Number 1: No reason to drink Burgundy Pinot as American Pinot is just as good. The first comment was about three weeks ago when the hosts were talking about Pinot Noir in the United States. It was mentioned that US Pinot is improving in quality (which I agree with) and that they are beginning to rival Burgundy (which I think is crazy!). Al Spoler went on to say that Burgundy was overrated (which it may be) and with the quality of US Pinot Noir, there’s no reason to drink the French equivalent (I’m using equivalent here loosely).

First, I do agree that US Pinot Noir can be exceptional. There are some very serious producers , both in California (Sea Smoke, Kosta Browne, Le Cadeau) and in Oregon (a variety of producers in the Willamette Valley), that I feel can rival many of the better vinters in Burgundy. But, I completely disagree that US winemakers have reached the level (across the board) as their French counterparts. Further, I have yet to have a US Pinot Noir that rivals the best (or near best) of Burgundy. Granted I have not had Domanee de la Romanee Conti (considered the greatest producer in Burgundy) but I’ve had my share of Grand Crus and must say they are not yet matched in the US.

If we’re talking value, perhaps their are better places to look than Burgundy. For instance, I’ve had a few Chilaen Pinot Noirs that can’t be beat at their price point (under $15). But, for the most part, the best of the US Pinots will cost at least $40, if not twice that. I will agree that Burgundy tends to be very hit or miss, that is, it’s easy to spend $50 and be very disappointed. But, that’s why we have the internet, wine publications and wine blogs. Find out what people are completely unimpressed with and avoid it. But, at the end of the day, the best Pinot Noir in the world (price and value aside) is still being produced in Burgundy.

Topic Number 2: “Foods that require beer”

I like Pinot and Burgundy, but I wasn’t that emotionally attached to the first topic. This one on the other hand really bothered me and is what inspired me to write this post. Al Spoler made the comment on May 7, 2008 that the following foods were beer-, but not very wine-, friendly:

• Thai Food
• Chinese Food
• BBQ
• Pizza

I heard his list and almost fell out of my chair! BBQ, pizza and Thai food in my opinion go great with wine, and although Chinese food is hit or miss with wine, there are some great options to go with for almost any dish. The statement that these foods (especially the first three) are only beer-friendly (or better with beer) is just crazy!

BBQ: For starters, try telling the people of Argentina who make some of the best BBQ in the world that their prized Malbecs aren’t a classic pairing with grilled meats. Or perhaps, try telling Zinfandel lovers that a big Zinfandel doesnt’ go great with BBQ ribs. These are some of the best food and wine pairings out there (simple grilled food, straightforward wines). Sure a beer goes great with BBQ, but there are many different wine options that go even better.

Pizza: Maybe Al was talkling about cheap, Papa-Johns takeout with loads of toppings and cheese and dipped in that butter garlic sauce? But with real pizza (homemade or just very good pizzaria pizza) there is nothing better than a Chianti or Barbera. I’ve enjoyed pizza in Florence, Bologna, Siena and Montalcino (picture above is of Kim and I in Montalcino enjoying fresh made pizza with a 2004 Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino)…and you know what everyone was drinking with their pizza? Local-produced red wines. Sure some toppings can be wine-unfriendly, but for the most part pizza and wine is a classic pairing (just make sure to find wines with good acidity that go well with the toppings).

Thai Food: One of the better BYOB restaurants in Baltimore is Thai Arroy. This small Thai Eat-in/Carry-out restaurant in Federal Hill offers good thai food and great service. Being BYOB makes it even better since you can try a variiety of wines you like to see how they go with the spicy cuisine. On many occasions we’ve enjoyed a crisp Riesling or sparkling wine with our spring rolls, beef nagamaki, or spicy fish and noodles. One of the best pairings with Thai food? A Gewurztraminer. Subtle tropical fruit notes and spicy acidity goes GREAT with Thai food. Sure, beer works great…but I’ll tkae a spicy Gewurztraminer any day over an ale or lager.

Chinese Food: This one can be tricky, but isn’t “impossible”. For starters, the same wines that go well with Thai food go great with spicy Chinese dishes such as Schechwan Chicken. A Pinot Noir is a great choice with duck, whereas a Syrah might work with a heartier dish. Riesling and Chardonnay both work great with a variety of Chinese food as well. Again, beer is a great match for the complex spices and flavors in traditional Chinese cuisine, but there are many great wine options that shouldn’t be overlooked.

In the end, Cellar Notes is the opinion of its hosts, and my recommendations are of course, only my opinion…there’s no “right” answer. The examples I’ve given above reflect wines that my friends and I very much enjoy with the corresponding foods. It’s important to not discount a food, wine or food/wine pairing on the basis of someone else’s opinion. As with the first topic of the wines of burgundy, always remember: Drink what you like, but keep an open mind and try to have some fun.