Two Flavors of Sangiovese di Montalcino: Rosso and Brunello

The small Tuscan DOCG around the city of Montalcino has been the center of attention lately following allegations that winemakers were using non-Brunello grapes in the production of the famed Brunello di Montalcino. The Brunello grape is really just a clone of Sangiovese that was first planted by the Biondi Santi family in the late 19th centruy. Up until the 1940’s many producers in and around Montalcino did not pursue the grape. It wasn’t until 1945 when Brunello really began to gain attention and saw widespread plantings. Today Brunello makes up one of the most prized wines in Tuscany and one of the premier wines of Italy. When well made, Brunello has fine tannins, wonderful fruit character and elegance. When combined with the tradition and romance of the history of Brunello, make this wine one of the most sought after in the world.

Today there are strict rules regulation the production of Brunello di Montalcino. These include:

• use of only the Brunello grape
• normale bottling: released 50 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle
• riserva: released 62 months after harvest after at least 2 years aged in oak and 4 months in bottle

Brunello’s younger sibling is Rosso di Montalcino. Again created only from Sangiovese (not of the Brunello clone), Rosso di Montalcino is released often only one year (18 months) after harvest. This cocky younger sibling doesn’t carry the elegance or finesse of the Brunello, but usually has good acidity and tannins and makes a great wine for pizza or pasta dishes. To put it another way, Brunello is the premium luxury BMW 750, then Rosso is the convertible 3 Series Sport Coupe.

In a good vintage, Brunello di Montalcino can age 15-20 years or more. The recent 2001 vintage (released in 2006) was outstanding with many of the Riserva Brunello’s having structure to last 25 years or more. But you don’t have to wait that long. Wines from the 1995, 1998 and even 2000 vintage are drinking great now. I find these vintages to be less tannic with good fruits and earthiness. Many of these wines are available online or at local wine shops across the United States. In general, 2002 was a poor vintage with many of the top estates passing on making wines. In 2003, drought and poor conditions at harvest were again a challenge to winemakers. Your best bet at this point is to find older vintages, perhaps at auction, while you await for the 2004’s which will be another above average year.

A few of my favorite Brunello producers:

• Altesino
• Casanova di Neri
• Castelgiocondo
• Cerbaia
• Costanti
• Fattoria dei Barbi
• Fuligni
• il Paradiso di Frassina
• Lisini
• Val di Cava/Vincenzo Abbruzzese

Recommend Rosso di Montalcino producers:

• Casanova di Neri
• Castello Banfi
• Croce de Mezzo (also makes an incredible olive oil!)
• Siro Pacenti
• Ciacci Piccolomini
• Val di Cava

But are they worth the money? As the 7 Series BMW is a more comfortable, elegant car compared to the 3 series, the Brunello is much more refined, especially in maturity, than the Rosso di Montalcino. For these reasons it’s no wonder why the Brunello’s are usually 2-3 times more expensive than their younger siblings. That being said, it’s important to keep in mind that for the price of a 3-Series BMW, one can get a fully loaded Infinity G-35x, which most would say is more bang for your buck. Rosso’s are a bit overpriced and in many cases, the $20-$35 you would spend on a Rosso di Montalcino could be spent buying a much better bottle of wine. For me, some Rosso’s are worth it as I really enjoy they style of wine, but I think most people would tend to think they just aren’t worth it. I do not seek out Rosso’s as I do Brunello’s, but when I come by a good deal I’ll usually take advantage of it.

What it all comes down to is that both wines can be very good, with Brunello’s having the potential to be outstanding wines. They are both wines of great regional character when made in the more traditional style (many are tasting more new-world due to updated winemaking technology in the region). If you are unfamiliar with the wines of Montalcino, I recommend picking up a few Rosso’s and Brunello’s, having a couple friends over, and seeing for yourself what all the fuss is about. One more thing, a decant is recommended when opening either wine when young (mature Brunello’s are often “pop and pour”)- think of it as taking it easy on your BMW for the first few thousand miles to break the engine in!

More reading on Montalcino:

Alone in Montalcino

Brunello tasting report I

Brunello tasting report II

Brunello Vintage Quality